Agro Homeopathy

August 2016 -Plant Doctor – Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky
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Our plant doctor Radko Tichavsky answers questions about houseplants and crops.

Our plant doctor, Radko Tichavsky, answers your questions about houseplants and crops for May 2016. Send your questions to  Please include your approximate location and climate.

Our plant doctors: Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Pawan Singhania


Radko Tichavsky          

Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.

Mark Moodie hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.

Agrohomeopathy Course!

Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here:

Quote of the Day

What do you need to be a good agrohomeopath?

Maybe it will sound to some as too philosophical or poetic, but unconditional love for all living beings, even organisms apparently very pathogenic, that express resonance with life and seek to transcend and finally will evolve in harmony with the holon.  –   Radko Tichavsky


Greetings Mr. Tichavsky,

The last year couple years our strawberry crop was attacked by gray mold (Botrytis cinerea). We’re determined not to use chemicals, so is there a natural way to deal with this problem? We live in Vineland New Jersey (zipcode 08360) in the U.S. The weather is mild and there’s been a lot of rainfall.

We love your column!

Thank you

Theresa  Goodwin

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Theresa,

Strawberry is a crop that in its evolution always coexisted with trees such as Pinus spp., Quercus spp., Acacia spp., and learned to exchange secondary metabolites with them to complement their defenses against different pathogens. By separating strawberries from its forest habitat, which often appears on the edge of the forest, and hybridizing the plant to produce larger and sweeter fruits, health problems of the plant are more frequent.
Strawberry contains 17 antifungal metabolites, including quercetin, kaempferol, citral, linalool, catechin, p-coumarinic acid, vanillic acid, phylloquinone and others, but once separated from its forest environment (holon) it becomes vulnerable to fungi such as as Botrytis spp.
Homeopathic remedies useful for various symptomatology are Allium sativum and Achillea millenrama 6 CH, Aconitum napellus 6 CH, Acacia farnesiana 6 CH and Silicea terra 6 CH of course. We also use successfully a really powerful homeopathic preparation made from “oak apple”, a kind of tumor caused by flies of Cynipidae family present in the leaves of Quercus sp.

aug 2016 plant dcotor1

These are collected once their color changes from green to coffee. An alcohol mother tincture is prepared and then a homeopathic preparation to 12 CH potency is done with a little of resin of Huisache (Acacia farnesiana) as coadjuvant and is sprayed on plants, especially in wet periods where the strawberry is likely to become infected. It is important to cut the infected fruits and compost it apart to avoid re-infection through spores.

Dear Radko,

Our apple and cherry trees have been attacked by apple maggots (Rhagoletis pomonella) .  The larvae dig through the fruit and destroy it.  They arrive in late spring and lay eggs under the apple skin. The eggs hatch, and the larvae did into the fruit.  We are in Dothan, Alabama, in the Southern U.S.  (Zip code 36301) Hot summers and cold winters. Moderate rainfall.  Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you

Maude Bishop

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Maude,

Rhagoletis pomonella is a plague that if left unfixed can destroy up to 100%  of the fruit crop. But thanks to the wisdom of the holon, Rhagoletis sp. also presents many parasitoids that can control it completely. Parasitoid families I can mention are:  Diachasmimorpha, Braconidae, Utetes, Hemipenthes, Bombyliidae and others. In this case we have to inform the holon about the problem through the nosode 6 CH prepared from the same pest, sprinkled foliar and at the soil. It can also be useful to spray Ruta graveolens 12 CH during oviposition period in the spring along with baba nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica) or Aloe vera gel as coadjuvant. In the rest of the productive period of the trees I recommend to apply Melia azedarach 12 CH on the soil. With a little patience you can break the reproductive cycle of the pest and balance the relationships in your holon.


Dear Radko Tichavsky,

I have two questions.  My plum tomatoes are showing blossom end rot in addition to yellowing and curled leaves on all tomatoes. I added a dozen crushed egg shells when planting and am only using organic gardening methods, such as compost and leaf mulch, but we have had intermittent dry and rainy spells.  I know the plums in particular are susceptible to the rot.  What can I use and how should I apply it?  I live on the East coast of the U.S. and it has been hot and rainy lately.

My second question is about pepper plants. They have brown spots with holes in the leaves. It started with a bell pepper and seemed to spread to the adjacent plant in the same bed just today. In addition to the leaves dropping, I am now losing buds. I have attached some photos.  I noticed leaves that had been partly eaten, and I have seen a couple yellow and black beetle type insects, but didn’t know if they are to blame. I am removing the diseased leaves, but pretty soon there will be none left on the bell pepper plant.

aug 2016 plant dcotor2  aug 2016 plant dcotor3

Pepper Plants                                                 Beetle type insect

Thank you,

Judy Leahy

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Judy,                                                                                                            Plants can take advantage of eggshells, but it always must be accompanied with a powerful biotic activity in the soil, which is difficult to get during periods of intermittent drought. In this case you have to dissolve the shells in apple vinegar and apply this liquid as microdosis (simple dilution of 1:40) in irrigation. Also a very useful homeopathic remedy is slime of Opuntia ficus-indica applied at 6 CH potency. It should be applied in a foliar way and also on the soil, in order to form  kind of semi-permeable nano-bags that have the ability to retain water in the soil even during periods of prolonged drought.  An application is made every two weeks.

Regarding the control of rot in tomato, especially useful are the fungal remedies (simila similibus curantur) Ganoderma applanatum, Ganoderma lucidum, Lentinus edodes or Schyzophyllum commune in low potency 6 CH. Make a short walk in your holon, looking at the fallen state of rotting logs and you will find the exact item belonging to your holon fungus, useful to control pathogens in tomato.
The insect in the image is Diabrotica sp. a voracious pest capable of destroying wide parts of the crop in one night. Nosode of insect at 30 CH potency is used to control him, and in case of an attack in progress, use Melia azedarach 6 CH, or Schinus molle 6 CH, or Larrea tridentata 12 CH.

Dear Radko Tichavsky,

Can you give me an overview of agrohomeopathy? What does it take to practice good agrohomeopathy?

Thank you

Dr. Kapil

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Dr. Kapil,

Agrohomeopathy is a discipline of experimentation, although it has been written relatively much about it, much of the literature is built by anthropocentric or speculative deductions. A part is represented by laboratory experiments, replicable only in the laboratory, but of little use in agricultural praxis. Actually the other part  is discovered by the direct experiences of farmers, very useful but often with lack of order in the repertorizations and applications. So, the first task of an agrohomeopath is turn to experimentation and testing, first on a small scale, then grow to medium and large scale and select from the vast amount of information, the reliable data.

The second task is to understand that agrohomeopathy has many common but also many divergent points with human homeopathy as “human homeopathy” treats a single species:  humans.  In agrohomeopathy we cure a set of organisms in a symbiotic-antagonistic relationship grouped in a holon.  So the patient is not a single individual or a group of individuals of the same species, but many species linked and grouped in a dynamic balance (in case of health ) or dynamic imbalance (in case of illness). This marks a notable difference with “human homeopathy”.

The third condition for the work of an agrohomeopath to be successful, is to know a little about the physiology of plants and organisms, “pathogens” and “non pathogens” and about their deployment of secondary metabolites, and their metabolic pathways.  Understanding their appearance in the holon, is not like a simple pest or disease to be fought, but has to be understand as a symptom of imbalance expressed by the holon.

About the author

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky was born in the Czech republic. He has lived in Mexico for more than 25 years and is one of the most important agrohomeopaths in Latin America. He is the author of the book "Manual de agrohomeopatía", a homeopathy book on plants. Radko teaches agrohomeopathy in several countries and regularly publishes articles in special journals and internet portals. He works as a researcher and teacher at the university and has already taught agrohomeopathy to many students. He is the director of the Comenius Institute ( More details can be found in the following interview:

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  • My fruit bearing lemon tree has almost dried up after receiving excessive urea.
    Now not a single leaf is found in the branches except that two /three branches are still green. Is there any hope of this tree getting back to life. regards

    • Hello, SS DE,
      your tree needs Cuprum C200, twice 3 pills within of 4 weeks. Put the pills simply on the soil near the tree and…. wait.
      Regards, Sabine

  • Hello, I try to understand what is happening with the chestnuts from my neighborhood in the last years. Soon after the leaves appear and develop, at the beginning of summer, there are some rusty spots on the leaves, which extend and now i august, the trees are practically all brown with very dry leaves. also in the park the trees are affected by something, they don’t grow too much and dry quickly. I heard the soil is too salty. What do you think (esp. for chestnuts – wild ones) ? Thank you

    • Dear Anca,
      you already gave the answer! …..RUSTY SPOTS!!! So you could try Ferrum M once, 3 pills on the soil. Sometimes it is very simple to find the correct remedy.
      Regards, Sabine from Germany