Kindly check the attached photograph of my CURRY-LEAF PLANT leaves. Since its infestation, the plant needs more water than usual – will have to water it twice daily [may also be due to summer – its 43’C here] Can you please help me?
From the image it seems that on the upper surface of the leaves you have black spots that are slightly raised above the rest of the leaf surface. You call it an infestation – do you know what has caused this? We might use an empirica lrepertorisation via www.considera.org/rep or search using the materia medica – www.considera.org/matmed – and we get some suggestions:
Sulphur’s looking a reasonable option.
Alternatively we can hope that going anthropomorphic will be a good guide and consider those remedies that need water and suffer from heat from the human materia medica.
And as another approach,why not allow ourselves to indulge in some speculation or theorizing. Consider what Hahnemann thought about the ‘totality of the symptoms’. What might be the equivalent in agrohomeopathy? I’d assume that this would include the soil, available irrigation in terms of volume and quality, the aspect, the climate, the surrounding plants (monoculture or mixed vegetation), other suffering plants in the area, and so forth – not forgetting which continent! Some of these could even be maintaining causes – eg lack of nutrients. I’d like to suggest a term from the biodynamic approach – the ‘agricultural individuality’ – as a concept that might be an agricultural equivalent to the totality of symptoms in a human and,therefore, point to the kind of information we need in order to make a successful diagnosis. Personally I’d imagine this idea being important as our new discipline strives for maturity and success.
I was wondering if you might help me with a Spruce tree. It has been diagnosed as having a form of needlecast and I am not sure what remedy, potency and frequency to give it and also how to administer it. I have attached a picture of the tree.
Thanks so much,
Have a think about the full situation as suggested in the answer above to Dr.AmitKarkare. I’m hoping for a bit more rounded description of the situation to increase the chances of a good prescription. At the moment there is no information that I can find in the materia medica so far accumulated. All I can suggest is to send in a broader description and/or have a go with a balanced formulation such as the basic biodynamic sprays (500 and 501 or Fladen) and report back so that information on needle cast can start to accumulate for the next folk who are concerned.
Potency: almost everyone is using 6X but I think that this is because it is widely available and does not have much theoretical or empirical backing to it. Some suggest giving the remedy and not repeating unless there is no improvement or if the improvement stops. It is usually given around the roots of the plants but there is a lively debate since foliar applications have had success and have been used since the 1920s.
I live in the UK and have two big problems with my 1 acre garden – rabbits and honey fungus – the geography of the plot does not allow fencing all around and I would really appreciate any advice you are able to give. Thank you.
Rabbits: we have had some success there. Here’s a testimonial for Glen Atkinson’s potentised mix of biodynamic preparations that he calls Rabbit Chase:
“Just thought I would give you an update on our rabbit situation. Your repellant has been BRILLIANT! We sprayed at the beginning of the year and we have had no sign of rabbits and nothing eaten for the whole of the summer. We are surrounded by numerous rabbits but none have gone near the area sprayed. We only sprayed the once and it was end of March/beginning of April. Not sprayed since.” This was also in the UK.So that’d be my recommendation.
Honey fungus: so far we have no information. Try something and report back please.
Hello Dr Mark,
I would like to know the name of the plant whose leaves are eaten by diabetics. This plant’s leaves help in diabetes. Can this plant be grown in pots as a house plant? How many leaves are eaten at a time and how many times a day. Thanks
Aspy from Pune
Dear Aspy. Sorry but I have no idea. Google?
I’ve only used Homoeopathic tablets/pills as medication. Kavi suggested liquid forms in the garden.Can I use the tablet/pills in lieu of liquids and if so what proportions would I use?
Dear Robert Quintrell,
Kavi suggested this: “ When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.” Christiane Maute has used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30l of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)
We live in Eastern Oregon. We have a lovely, but sick honey locust in our front yard. He has a fungus that causes decreased foliage, peeling bark and die off of lower branches, also cankers I think. Anyway, we would like to treat it with a homeopathic and wondered what you would recommend? I saw one recommendation of Dulcamara but don’t know how to administer it-dosages, repetition etc… Any help you could give would be great. We love our tree and would miss him dearly were he to die.
Thank you very much,
Dear Cynthia. Have a look at the answers above to Robert Quintrell and Denise to get answers to your questions:
Can you please tell me, do you think adding Calcarea Carbonica 6x will be sufficient to increase the calcium/pH in the soil for growing vegetables? How often should I add it? Do you believe that it is as good as adding limestone to the soil for this purpose? Is there anything I can add to increase the NPK /Nitrogen/Potassium/ Phosphorus levels Mark?
Thank you so much for your support.
I’m not sure if I believe it. However, there was work by Lily and Eugen Kolisko in the 1920’s which suggested exactly that! The work is called ‘Agriculture of Tomorrow’. It’s expensive and rare in physical copy but you can access a digital version at Soil and Health here: http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/01aglibwelcome.html
NPK: again it would defy conventional wisdom but I have used a potentised preparation called ‘Pro Phosphorus’ on fields in the midlands of the UK. The single (and therefore statistically insignificant) result was positive: the phosphorus as measured against an unsprayed area was about 30% higher after a single application, and was measured by the industry standard techniques by an independent laboratory. However, it flies so directly in the face of conventional wisdom does it not? The best way to deal with such a striking heretic result is to try it and keep good before and after measurements. The remedy was made by Enzo Nastati and he has written extensively about the esoteric considerations behind its creation. In the same series there are preparations for N and K.
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