This month, our plant doctors Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Dr. Ahsan Waris weigh in on your plant problems. Send your questions to: [email protected]
Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is the former director of Instituto Comenius at Mexico, author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homepathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy. www.icomenius.edu.mx El 04/12/2014, a las 15:36, Radko Tichavsky [email protected] escribió
Your questions are answered below, but first Mark Moodie has a message about how to approach plant problems:
Mark Moodie: Agrohomeopaths would do well to approach problems in our farms and garden from at least two directions. The first is comparing our situation with precedents, and copying what has worked in the past when others have had a similar problem. The second is understanding why the problem has become manifest and using that insight to address the problem.
Initially we may learn by imitation and by adopting dogmas from teachers and friends, but we really grow up when we understand why something is done so that we can be creative and forge our own answers. I assume that we are all in different stages along this continuum, working with a mixture of assumption and insight, experience and hope.
Although a lot of my work has been to make it possible to imitate others through the material medica and repertory at www.considera.org my main interest is to squeeze our common discipline towards understanding and away from unquestioning repetition so that we can be increasingly effective, even when faced with new situations.
In practice these two approaches are bridged and mediated into one if and when we have a full picture of the situation. What does one need to know to make a valid diagnosis? One prescriber will may feel confident just knowing the pathologist’s title for the complaint. For that person as soon as s/he hears there are, for example, slugs, the prescription ‘helix tosta’ will leap to mind. Job, sometimes, done. Another prescriber may want to know more: what is the plant that is troubled by slugs and what has been the weather in the last days, and is this a problem for the region or just this garden? Is this slug-infested plant the only host for the slugs? What is the soil like? In what continent are these plants? Are they raised on soluble fertiliser or humus? What other issues are manifest? If one puts this into the language of the Organon we are asking to appreciate the totality of the symptoms.
It is my experience that we are sometimes fortunate to select an effective remedy just knowing the single symptom – ie slug – but I assume we will increase our success rate when we have that bigger picture and can orientate ourselves within that fuller totality. This helps us chose the best remedy but it also guides us to address the underlying problem in other ways if they are ore effective: it may be a soil amendment or a change in irrigation practice and so forth. Knowing when not to prescribe a remedy is a good tool in the bag.
Agrohomeopathy is a very young discipline. It is a tiny little baby, nursed by a few unfunded boffins. Although it has had great successes and shows greater potential, there are differing opinions about how this baby should be raised. Amongst the passionate debates, most agree that you can’t argue with evidence. It is a neutral arbiter. If something is tried and is found to be effective the debate falls into secondary importance. That is why I keep asking for stories of what has been found effective.
At the moment the materiamedica – www.considera.org/matmed – is more complete than the repertory – www.considera.org/rep. Both are designed so that everyone can consult them and add to them for free. Anyone can add their experiences on-line or by post. It is also the first place to try if you have a question.
Of course, if the material medica isn’t forthcoming, ask.
Applying the remedies:
Kavi suggested this: “When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.”
Christiane Mautehas used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30l of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)
Mark Moodie says: try the above. As agrohomeopathy is so young please do take these as no more than initial suggestions. In biodynamics we make a distinction between remedies that irrigate a plant and those that are sprayed in the air. Kavi often said you don’t take a shower in the remedy, you drink it and because a plant drinks through its roots that’s why you apply in there. But the stoma on the underside of the leaves are also paths into the plant so I would argue with Kavi. There you have it – a difference of opinion. Perhaps frustrating but I hope you will sigh and take it as a permission to experiment – AND REPORT BACK! (Thanks)
I have two queries:
- Of late my curry plant leaves have started curling and growth is stinted. I see small black powder like granules on the back side of the leaf. The same is the case with my ficus plant.
- Many of my plants are affected by this white mildew on several of my plants.
I live in Bengaluru, India. The climate is moderate but it is the cold season now. Temperature ranging between 20 to 28 degrees.
K S Nagesh
Remedy for curry plant : Urtica urens 6 CH
Equisetum arvense 6 CH with a little vegetable oil as adjuvant.
…or Silicea terra 6 CH. Repeat the treatment as necessary
…or Cocos nucífera 6 CH with little of bit of Opuntia ficus-indica as adjuvant.
I have some beautiful hollyhocks which have grown over 3 metres. However they have suffered badly with rust. I sprayed each leaf each day on the top and underneath with a mixture containing Neem oil. This has helped but I would like to know which homeopathy remedy I could use please. Some of the leaves have now gone variegated and some have started to curl. I would like to have healthy hollyhocks next year. All of the leaves up to 1 metre have fallen off. I live on the south coast of Australia on the eastern side. The climate is mild temperate. Temp range at the moment is about 14-30 degrees.
Before any homeopathic treatment, be sure to use these good practices:
- Always irrigate at the base of the plants (not on the leaves).
- Space plants farther apart to ensure good air circulation.
- Don´t compost infected leaves, as this perpetuates the problem. It’s better to burn those infected leaves.
Sulphur 12 CH
Cuprum metallicum 6 CH
Ganoderma applanatum (australe) 12 CH
Ganoderma lucidum 12 CH
Ganoderma can be found in you region parasitizing dying trees. They grow on hardwood stumps and logs of Oak, Elms, Beech, Maples and others.
Please suggest a remedy for brown plant hoppers (bph), green plant hoppers leaf hoppers and jassids.
Bhanu Varshini – India
The agrohomeopathic remedies have to be repertorized depending on which plants insects are found on. For example,the green plant hoppers in roses will need a different remedy from green plant hoppers in chards, because we heal plants, (not pests or diseases). Even if the result looks the same, the difference is that if you focus your cure to eliminate insects, fungus or bacteria, even with homeopathy, these will be reconfigured and will return again and again. But if you heal plants homeopathically, they will not need any medicines in the future, since they will grow vigorously and will have sufficient defenses. As general advice: decrease the amount of nitrogen and increase calcium in your plants. Eg. dissolve eggshells in vinegar, mix with ash and apply in proportion 1:20 in the irrigation water.
Hi Plant Doctors. I wish you Merry Xmas & Happy New Year. Here is a picture of a pomegranate potted plant which just started yielding fruit. Do you have any advice to help maintain healthy growth of the fruit?
Aspy – Pune India
You can apply Taraxacum officinalis 6 CH once a week, which is the constitutional remedy for pomegranate, Taraxacum helps the performance of the plant in general and assists in good fruit development. You can also apply the remedies Hamamelis virginiana 30 CH and Calcarea phosphorica 30 CH.
We grow peas in soil where it is infested with Fusarium which rots many seeds and the seeds which grow dry up and the root dies. Also, if we grow peas in the rainy season the pods get green spots. Could you suggest remedies? I live in Kenya.
Ramnathan Kalyanam – Kenya
The easiest solution to your problem is to inoculate the soil with Trichoderma fungus. Fusarium is very resistant to many treatments. You can also try an extract of Toddalia asiatica (very common in your region). Prepare methanolic tincture from the root and bark; prepare it homeopatically to 6 CH and mix it into the irrigation water of your peas.
Recently I bought a flowering plant. It was in a plastic bag which I transplanted in a bigger container. It is not thriving and recently I noticed black coloured tiny insects (see picture below). Could you kindly suggest a solution? Are these insects harmful. It is cold winter in India and the temperature sometime drops to 11°c in my town.
You can simply apply water with a little vegetable oil and spray it over the plant. Also neem extract can easily solve this problem. You can also use the homeopathic remedies Staphysagria 6 CH or Ledum palustre 6 CH