Our plant doctors Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Pawan Singhania weigh in on your plant problems.
Radko TIchavsky Mark Moodie Pawan Singhania
Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy. http://icomenius.edu.mx/index1034.php?lang=esp
Mark Moodie hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy https://considera.org/hrxmatmed.html The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.
Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here: www.icomenius.edu.mx
Our plant doctor, Radko Tichavsky, answers your questions about houseplants and crops for May 2016. Send your questions to Mail@hpathy.com Please include your approximate location and climate.
Dear Radki Tichavsky,
I am using homeopathy for agriculture in Saharanpur, Uttar Pradesh State, India since 2009. Here farmers are growing rice crops. Every year they are facing fungal disease known as Rice Blast. The last two years I tried to cure the disease with homeopathy but could not control the disease. Based upon my observations and experience I tried Sulphur, Carbo Veg, Aconite, Belladona and Silicea, without significant result. Now three remedies Dulcamara, Rhus tox and Bryonia come to mind after studying the Rice Blast disease life cycle. I will try these remedies. I have made five groups RB1,RB2,RB3,RB4,and RB5. Each group has 5Acres of agriculture land. The rice crop variety is Pusa1121.
If you have any suggestion / experience then please tell me.
MD Zul Maarif
Dear Zul Maarif,
The hybridization of the species has been beneficial on the one hand to create plants with high production, but also detrimental to weaken the deployment of defenses in the form of secondary metabolites. This has been the especially the case with rice. Sulphur, Carbo vegetabilis, Aconite, Belladona and Silicea are remedies directed towards combating Magnaporthe spp. (anamorph Pyricularia spp.), fungus, known as rice blast. But a more elegant strategy could be not to fight against the rust, but strengthen some parts of the metabolic pathway of rice especially concerning anthocyanins flavonoids and antioxidants that work as an alternative in sulfur deprived plants. Shikimic acid, Aspartic acid and Threonine are other secondary metabolites that play an important role in the metabolism of rice regarding rice blast.
The theme of rice and Magnaporthe spp. is very complex. It was just recently that the genetic structure of the plant was deciphered. Many of its epigenetic mechanisms are still a mystery and as for the fungus, its secondary metabolites have hardly been identified. It should be helpful to search for varieties of rice that are more rustic and resistant to the fungus with less human manipulation and return a little more to wild rices.
Under the assumption of continuing to work with the crop variety Pusa1121 popular in India, it could be helpful to apply Phosphorus 6 CH, Acacia farnesiana, Achillea millenfolium, Allium cepa, Allium sativum, Aloe vera, Equisetum arvense and Phytolacca at low potencies. Ricinus communis 30 CH Arnica montana 200 CH and Staphysagria 200 CH Nux vomica 200 CH will help expand the epigenetic plasticity of the rice plants in response to pathogenic fungi and some unfavorable climatic changes. It is also very important to work with certified seed, as the rust can remain dormant in infected seed and thus forms a continuous circle of re-infection.
My problem is too much rain. I have a small vegetable and fruit garden which is bordered on two sides by arborvitae fence, a few other bushes and big oak. I hope it helps a bit. I have ground cover plants, like clover. As a last attempt, I put a layer of straw on all open spaces in the garden. But it is waterlogged anyway now and then. Apart from dill, which has some problems (yellowing and dying), there are no problems yet. But the rain does not stop, it continues every day already for two weeks and it will continue (it’s Netherlands, Oud-Loosdrecht). Is there anything I can do to help plants survive that kind of weather (which is sometimes very stormy also) or should I give up gardening?
By the way, when will I be able to read your book in English?
Jolanta Senele firstname.lastname@example.org
You must never give up the noble work of gardening. Recent climate changes and changes in the rainfall pose increasing problems in protecting agriculture. In the case of your garden you might cover your garden with a roof of clear plastic to reduce the flow of water on your crops.
Generally the best protection against flooding (but also against drought) is to keep large soil depth and keep the mulch on the soil surface (as you do correctly already), and add a little sand in the soil to help in soil drainage. Another solution would be to seek crops that favor high humidity conditions. Kalium muriaticum and Kalium carbonicum are the remedies related to disturbances of water in the soil.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
I have a very beautiful Copper Cherry blossom. It was uprooted and the bark very badly damaged all the way around it. I have been treating it with remedies and am wondering if there are any recommendations to help protect the tree and help the bark to recover?
Claire Edmunds-Bergin email@example.com
It depends on the depth of the damage. In the anatomical structure of tree bark there are several outer layers, inner bark (phloem secondary), vascular cambium and so on. Phloem vascular tissue leads sugars and other nutrients from the organs where they are synthesized and produced, to consume, store and transport them (in an ascending and descending way). If the damage is not deep, it will be sufficient to apply Arnica 6 CH sprinkled over the lesion and paint the damaged part of the trunk with a latex paint mixed with tea of Equisetum arvense to protect the tree from the entrance of pathogenic fungi. The tree may live but will not retrieve the bark.
Hi Radko Tichavsky,
We have really a lot of Jacobaea senecio/ Jacobaea vulgaris in our pasture (Belgium – Europe) which is very harmful for the horses when they should eat it. It spreads a lot and is a real pest. For the moment we try to take it out manually, but this takes days and days. And now the weed is flowering and every flower will become seed. I was thinking I might use the flowers to make a kind of tea and spray the field with it (and prevent the horses from eating there for a month) and perhaps it would be work as a kind of homeopathic remedy? So I Googled and found your website. Can you help me find a way to control the weed in the pasture in an ecological way?
Ingrid – Belgium firstname.lastname@example.org
To fix the prolliferation of this plant you can use crisomelid root feeder Longitarsus jacobaeae. But to understand why this plant appears, it is very important to know that Jacobaea vulgaris is one of more important bioindicators of pollution of heavy metals frequently found in soils in Europe. So the remedy for your holon is Boldus 12 CH, Carduus marianuus 12 CH, and Capsela bursa pastoris 6 CH. Once the levels of heavy metals pollution of the soil is lowered, if you provide these two remedies to your horses, and probably also to those who live in this zone, this plant will simply disappear from the holon.
Please let me know the remedy for too high soil PH. My soil PH is around 8.5.
Sulphur 6 CH is the key remedy to lower the pH, but it is very important to maintain also a good level of chelators in the soil. For example, one can apply often microdoses of the sap of Opuntia ficus-indica, and also increase the content of organic matter in the soil, frequently adding mature compost (humic and fulvic acids).
Hello dear plant doctor,
I am a homeopath and subscriber of Hpathy. I regularly read your articles and am fond of agrohomeopathy. I live in Pune, Maharashtra, India where it has started raining now. Temp is 28°C. I have a question about my house plants and want your expert advice. Some of them have ceased flowering namely, Jasminum sambac, Crossandra infundibuliformis, Common jasmine . We tried girdling for Magnolia champaca after which it started flowering again. Once I had tried Bach flower remedy (Walnut ) which gave some results but they don’t flower now.
Dear Dr. Poooriya Jeste,
On Magnolia you can apply Acidum phosphoricum 12 CH; on Crossandra you can apply Diospyros (made from bark) 12 CH and for the three plants you can use Phosphorus 200 CH to stimulate creation of flowers.
I am a scientist working in the seed industry. I am interested in using homeopathic medicines on my plants. Recently I planted Hot Pepper plants which are now 50 days old. They are infected with Thrips, Whiteflies and some are infected with virus. I will be very thankful if you can suggest remedies for these problems. I am interested in using agrohomeopathy on different crops. I am located in Nagpur (Central india). The climate: Currently it is end season of summer. (Approx 35-39 deg C) and nearly 40% humidity. In the next 7-10 days rain will start. I have planted in a polyhouse where temperature is approx 30 Deg. and watering is by drip system. Nearby crop: In the same polyhouse only hot pepper is planted but in nearby area Cotton, Brinjal, Tomato, Cucumber is planted.
I need recommendation for Polyhouse conditions as well as field conditions, as I am planning to transplant plants outside the polyhouse too.
Thanking you in anticipation
Abhishek Bhirangi email@example.com
Dear Abhishek Bhirangi,
Most of the diseases in plants, specifically in chili peppers, are caused by excesses or nutritional deficiencies. The leading cause of thrips and whitefly is excess nitrogen and calcium deficiency (which is the origin of other sequential deficiencies). In this brief answer I can only give short tips: Intersperse every 3 meters at your polyhouse rosemary and basil, alternating with rough. Avoid use of artificial nitrogen fertilizers or animal fertilizers (cow dung for example). Apply Calcarea carbonica 6 CH and Carbo vegetabilis 6 CH sprayed on leaves regularly and Ricinus communis 12 CH (made from seeds) and also foliar. As a gift for your decision to develop agrohomeopathic crops I add photos of Habanero chilies growing in a shade cloth house and polyhouse in Yucatan Mexico. We don’t use anything from animal origin, nor any chemical fertilizers and only use agrohomeopathy.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
Many thanks for a very interesting column. In your columns I have read that the nosode of the soil could be used. When could we consider using it? What are the application rules? And what are the consequences for plants and soil?
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance,
Jolanta Senele firstname.lastname@example.org
The nosode of soil is mainly used as a reviver of the holon. After collecting representative samples of soil, TM is dynamized and applied in low potency, thus integrating or connecting different parts of the holon, which increases their resilience. When used in medium potency (30CH) in soil, it functions mainly as a drain, to fix imbalances and toxicities. The nosode of soil applied on leaves promotes parts of the plant nutrition and is protection against bacteria and fungi. It is also used against oviposition of insects and to revitalize the plant. The use of a series of descending and ascending potencies of soil nosode is to activate adaptive mechanisms in the soil and in plants. Nosodes from soil is extremely broad and very interesting topic.
Dear Plant Doctor,
I live in Hungary and I have a beautiful Walnut tree which about 18 years old and is 8 m tall. Last year after stormy weather with hail I realised that the young green crop was falling down. Only a quarter of the crop was mellowed. This year however I experienced the same symptoms. I cut some green Walnut in two and found the disease of Xanthomonas. Also I see on the leaves the sign of the Eriophyes erineus as well. What shall I do to heal my tree? How I can recognise any improvement, because in the last two weeks almost all of the green crop has fallen down. Here are photos of infected leaves and crops.
You can fix Erinosis with foliar applications of Sulphur 6 CH with olive oil as a coadjuvant. It is important to apply it especially in the beginning of the cycle, first weekly, then biweekly and from mid-cycle only once a month.The nitrogen fertilization causes an increased sensitivity to Xanthomonas sp. bacteria. You have to perform thinning and pruning to facilitate entry of air and light on the tree. Apply nosode of Xanthomonas at 6 CH, Ganoderma applanatum 12 CH and Thuya occidentalis 12 CH.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
There are a few problems that have me puzzled for remedies with plants:
1. Am searching for a remedy for striped cucumber beetle or the bacterial wilt that it causes.
2. Also, trying to deal with snails. Helix tosta seems to attract the snails and only works on slugs.
3. In house plants, there is Scale (on some succulents) and Mealybugs (on aloe vera and a soft leaf houseplant) which was not affected by Coccinella which Kaviraj had recommended.
I am in New York State, half way between New Your City and Albany. Temperatures range from 0-95o F but we have been having fairly mild winters and less snow cover. Every year is different. Last year, 2014-15, there was abundant winter rain (not snow) and the apple trees produced excessively. This year winter was pretty dry. Not sure of annual rainfall but it is varied. We are in a fairly dry period now.
Cucumbers usually get planted along the fence line to use it for climbing. Last year they were in the same location and were planted next to some volunteer tomatoes which came up very late. This year there are many volunteer Chinese Mustard Greens, some volunteer morning glories of which I have seen 2 in the proximity so far. And there is a row of Savoy Cabbage about 4 ft from the cucumbers.
There is a garlic bed on the other side of the fence beginning about 18-24″ away. There is full sun on this fence line. This year the Cucumbers were started in seed flats as in previous 3 years almost all seedlings in the garden disappeared almost as soon as they sprouted.
The snails are all over the garden. I have seen them on the garlic without any damage. But they show up on most of the leafy greens (collards, chard, turnip greens, mustard greens, broccoli) and sometimes have seen slugs on the tomatoes. Cannot grow melons due to the slug damage. in the garden. The greatest damage seems to be on the chard and beets (same family)
The soil is naturally clay although with lots of sand, leaves, weeds are added to break it up and add fiber.
The pH of the soil is a bit high, 7.7 and Sulphur gets added, but not enough I think.
Thank you. Any advice will be appreciated
Tanya Marquette – email@example.com
- You can control Acalymma vittatum, striped cucumber beetle, with Larrea tridentata 6 CH
- You can repel snails with Lantana camara 6 CH and then apply Melia azedarach 6 CH
- In the case of Mealy bugs (Pseudococcidae sp.) you can apply Equisetum arvense 6 CH, Melia azedarach, Capsicum anuum 3 CH and Acidum aceticum 3 CH