Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.
Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here: www.icomenius.edu.mx
A Materia Medica and Repertory for Plants: Mark Moodie hosts the website “Considera”, which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy .The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.
Dear Mr. Radko Tichavsky,
I have an olive orchard. I observe that some trees have verticillium vilt. I know verticillium is soil related. Is there a homeopathic remedy for this fungus? The orchard is located in Salihli Manisa Turkey. The average rainfall is 550 mm per year, and altitude is 260 m.
The presence of Verticilium in Olea europaea is mainly due to the imbalances caused by the farmer himself. In order to prevent and control the verticulosis in the olive trees, it is important to maintain a soil cover (mulching) consisting of native plants and a mixture of grasses and leguminosae plants, for example Trifolium sp., Medicago sativa and native pastures. This cover should be cut periodically and left in the same place of the cut. Also, the distance between the trees is important so that there is adequate aeration and not competitions between the trees. The presence of antagonistic mycorrhizal fungi, for example Glomus spp. will inhibit the development of Verticilium. It is also important not to exceed the use of N in any of the synthetic or animal origin forms. The homeopathic medicines used in the symptomatology of Verticilosis are Glycine max 6 CH (from seeds) and Daucus carota 6 CH (from seeds) and they are applied in irrigation.
Greetings Mr. Tichavsky,
I live in Virginia, in the United States (78 W, 39 N). I have a peach tree growing in my yard, out of the compost area. It is about 15 feet tall and has small fruit. My problem is that some of the leaves are curled and shriveled/brown on the end, and some have green puckers on them. I have enclosed pictures.
I have also enclosed a picture of leaves from my Mulberry tree, which has some sort of blight. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated!
The temperature here averages 80F in the summer and goes down to 20F in the winter. Rainfall averages 3.4 inches in the growing season.
The peach seems to be suffering the effects of Taphrina deformans. This fungus can be controlled with Daucus carota 6 CH (elaborated from plant seeds) sprayed on leaves with sap-coayuvant elaborated from flax seeds hydrated in the water. To increase the size of the fruit you can pour the remaining bagasse of carrot juice around the trunk of the trees, or dilute carrot juice in 1: 100 ratio in the water in the irrigation.
For the fungal affection of the mulberry tree you can use Juglands nigra (prepared from leaves of the tree) dynamized in potency 6 CH with a little vegetable oil as an adjuvant.
Dear Mr Tichavsky,
Are there any homeopathic applications that can help with clay-like soil that is compacted, wet and has poor drainage. I was reading that such soil is conventionally treated with lime or gypsum, which brought to mind Calc-carb and Calc-sulph. I have also read that Silicea can be a great homeopathic soil aid.
I live on a well and septic system, and the septic system is in a shady area of my property and the soil where I live can be very clay-like (if wet enough, you can roll it into a shape, like children’s clay). When we have spring rains, or snow melt, my septic system becomes problematic because the soil in which it was placed is clay-like, in the shade (not getting dried out with more sun exposure) and of course has to take the burden of offering daily drainage to a septic system in addition to the rains or snow melt etc.
So, I am wondering whether Calc-carb, Calc-sulph or Silicea in homeopathic application would shift the ionization habits of clay soil to promote more favorable drainage in this area of my yard. Given that a septic system relies on a balance of bacteria to properly function, I also would not want to alter that and create functional problems with a remedy.
You actually describe several problems in one: lack of soil drainage, asymmetric particle size composition of the soil, poor soil vitality, and low microbial load on it. There are several remedies that may be more useful other than those you mentioned, for example Carbo vegetabilis, Sulphur or Ammonium carbonicum. However, the most important thing is to transform a degraded and devitalized soil and create the soil cover that can transform its texture and vitality with even greater vehemence and depth. The selection of plants for this bioremediation stage depends on each holon. The best ones are the native plants, which with their life cycle, provide organic material to the soil and propitiate multiplication of beneficial microorganisms. As new organisms and plants appear in the holon, nosodes are prepared from them, and this in turn produces greater biodiversity in the holon. New plants will appear in your holon once again and of these you prepare once again a bionosode, giving the holon a greater vitality and greater capacity of the soil to solve different vital situations. This process is named “actualization” or “revitalization” of the holon.
Dear Mr. Tichavsky,
Is there an effective treatment for mosaic virus on cucumber plants? I live in Denton, Texas, (North-Central Texas), U.S. Rainfall: 1/4 in. every 2 weeks. Temperature: high 70’s during the day and high 60’s at night. The cucumber plants are near parsley, sage and red peppers.
There are a number of ways to combat mosaic virus in cucurbitaceous plants. The first option is of course to look for plant varieties resistant to the virus, and the second, to treat through the induction of SAR (Systemic Acquired Resistance in plants). It is very important not to exceed in nitrogen applications in any of the forms (compound, teacomposts, manure, ammonia etc.) as its excess causes greater susceptibility to the virus. It is important to avoid re-infection from other susceptible plants (for example the Solanacea plants next to them) by insect vectors of the disease. Cutting and working tools have to be sanitized and smokers should not have access to the area, as the virus can be transmitted through tobacco contact (the Solanacea plant also suffers from the same virus). As a homeopathic remedy you can use Salix babylonica 12 CH, Vitamin C 12 CH, application of bionosode of mosaic virus 30 CH, Pinus strobus 6 CH, Acetylsalicylic acid (Aspirin) 12 CH Betula (bark preparation) 12 CH
Dear Mr. Tichavsky
I am an agronomist interested in alternatives to chemicals. I tried some isotherapeutic preparations based on strains of phytopathogenic fungi such as that of tomato powdery mildew diluted up to 12CH. But in general, this did not succeed.
Could you guide me to prepare this kind of preparations namely:
– What should I use, mycelium or sick plant organs or.. ?
– the solvents used?
– How to save samples?
– How to make the mother tincture? What its desired starting concentration?
– The process of dilution and dynamization? What is the degree of dilution effective?
– Association with nutrients will it be desired?
First I have to know in which crop the Peronospora sp. (Powdery mildew) will be treated, as the homeopathic remedies will vary depending on the plant being treated. In homeopathy we cure the patient (the holon and the plant) and not the disease. This therapeutic approach is opposed to allopathy prevalent in conventional agriculture. Each plant has a different composition of secondary metabolites, and this is why it will get a different remedy. It will vary from plant to plant, so for example powder mildew in grapes will have a different remedy if treated in cucurbitaceas or solanaceas.
Using bionosodes is one of the options that is mainly used as a preventive and sometimes as a corrective (once the infection is developed in the plant). To make the bionosode we use the diseased tissue of the plant (mycelium and plant tissue together). To make mother tincture we use half-volume of sick material and half-volume of ethyl alcohol 30% . It is allowed to ripen in a dark and cool place for a week and Hahnemanian centesimal dynamization is prepared between 6-12 CH (each dinamization is made by 1:100 dilution and 100 strong sucussions). The remedy is applied with vegetable oil as adjuvant in 1:100 ratio in water sprayed on the plants.
The main thing is to understand that a well-nourished plant (without excess of nitrogen and with good calcium content) in a well connected holon (for example through soil bionosodes applications), with soil cover, with a good biodiversity of microorganisms in the soil, will keep active the antagonistic fungi of Peronospora sp. and although its spores are present in the soil, they will not affect the plants. In this sense, the holohomeopathy does not propose a simple substitution of allopathic fungicides by “homeopathic fungicides”, but rather it repertorizes each pathogenesis and depending on the symptoms of the holon (for example reactions of the plant, but also the appearance of other plants and other bioindicators around it) selects the remedy, the potency of the remedy, the frequency of application, and the dose
An exceptional column from an extraordinary man. Radko Tichavsky’s answers demonstrate wisdom about the delicate balance of nature. Thank you
Does anybody also have experiencies with “double remedies”? I dicovered this theme in the town Köthen, where Hahnemann lived for several years. Köthen is the Center for homeopathy. Also in Köthen the brilliant homeopath Athur Lutze founded a homeopathic hospital in 18xx. Lutze discussed the double remedies with Hahnemann. Von Boenninghausen or Aegidi worked with two combined remedies, too.
After I gave a Sequoia (which I already had treated the last three years with e. g. Ferrum, Cuprum etc.) Belladonna and a Remedy from the animal kingdom, same dillution and same quantity en parallel, the tree explodes and gets overall new green.
I test each plant with the help of radionic and make some trials also with isopathic remedies (horse chestnut tree).
I would be very happy, if we could exchange our experiencies concerning homeopathy for plants here in this column.
Greatings from Germany, Sabine Krümmer