Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.
Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here: www.icomenius.edu.mx
A Materia Medica and Repertory for Plants: Mark Moodie hosts the website “Considera”, which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy .The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
There are white insects on the stems of my tomato plants. The insect has a spongy texture, and red color when pressed. It affects plants roses and all the vegetables. The branches of the plant becomes dry and eventually the plant dies. I live in the southern part of India. 8 degree north of equator. Hot place with moderate rainfall. Temperature varies from 28 to 34 degree Celsius.
You can apply Equisetum arvense 6 Ch with Opuntia ficus-indica baba on your plant if the days are sunny, and if it is during the cool season you can use a small amount of vegetable oil (for example palm or olive oil) as a coadjuvant. You can also apply Allium cepa 6 CH, a remedy that shares 113 secondary metabolites with the tomato.
I am a vegetable farmer from the village of Bhimbhori in Chhattisgarh India. (Postal code 490036 ). I’m having a problem with White fly, Thrips, Pod Borer, Aphids, Cut worm. The temperatulre is 33° to 35°average. Rainfall is normal. Nearby farmers are also growing vegetables like chili, cowpea, banana, etc.
The presence of white flies, thrips cutworms and aphids correspond to a picture of nutritional imbalance caused by an excess of nitrogen (of either artificial or animal origin). The excess of nitrogen produces dark green, large but very soft tissues that are susceptible to being attacked by insects. You can apply Calcarea carbonica 6 CH followed by Carbo vegetabilis 6 CH as a general rule keeping in mind that each one of the crops you mention will require different remedies, even if it has “the same plague”. In holohomeopathy we always cure the patient (the plant and the holon), we do not focus, in principle, to remove the pest or disease, however, as a result of the treatments, it finally disappears. Pests and diseases are nothing other than holon’s effort to balance off excesses and toxicities and adapt to changes in the environment.
As far as the nutrition of their crops is concerned, you should reduce the application of nitrogen fertilizers (artificial or animal origin) and replace them with hydrolates from Ricinus communis leaves for example. The practical way to do this is to fill half a 200 liter container with leaves (without the seeds) of Ricinus communis and crush them, for example, by tapping it with a wooden trunk, the rest of the container should be filled with water, stirred lightly and wait a couple of days until a foam is formed in the surface and then wait after the foam disappears on its own. Once that happens, you separate the liquid of the rest of the plants and dissolve this liquid in a 1: 100 proportion. For every 100 liters of irrigation water add 1 liter of this remedy and apply in the irrigation. This will supply enough nutrients to your crops without generating excesses.
It is important to ensure correct crop rotation (do not sow the same crop twice in a row) and always keep the soil covered with decaying organic material. Homeopathy is an excellent way to control pests and diseases and to keep crops healthy, but remember that it does not substitute a good nutrition for plants that essentially eat decomposed plants. We could say that they are vegetarian and absorb less successfully mineral compounds or derivatives of animal manures.
Hello Mr. Tichavsky,
I wonder if you can recommend a deterrent or healthy spray to prevent a beautiful small red iridescent beetle from munching holes through my crops of aromatic plants of lemon balm and several mints until they look like lace? This is the second spring / summer of them visiting us in NE Scotland I suspect they may be back next year. I would be grateful if you have any advice.
Lemon balm and Apple mint was the favourite with the beetles and are amongst lots of other beds of different mints and herbs in a sunny dry spot in a courtyard with natural stone slabs and slate. Behind are climbing roses; not far away are large conifers. I also keep many large terracotta pots and a large cold frame nearly.
The courtyard with stone walls is warmer than the rest of the garden, but in Scotland, there are famously 4 seasons in one day. The Spring was warmer than usual at 15+ to even 20 and the Winter did not have a really prolonged cold spell for the last 2 years. (The Summer has not been much warmer – 15/24 in West Aberdeenshire)
It has been a drier summer than usual, and I’ve watered with a hose regularly. I have only noticed the beetles for 2 years, but they have certainly multiplied this season, then disappeared in the last 2 weeks and the tops of the apple mint now look normal and almost in flower. When I looked on the internet, I couldn’t find an exact match; they are metallic red and ladybug shaped without the spots. I realise now that I should have photographed them!
Dear Patricia, I really enjoyed the phrase “famous 4 seasons in one day”, I have to experienced them someday. For your Melissa officinalis plants, you can prepare mother tincture made of black pepper and apply it to the 6 CH potency once a week in the critical season of insect attack (if the weather is cool you can apply a small amount of Origanum vulgare or Rosmarinus officinalis oil as adjuvant, and in warm weather, you can use Aloe vera sap for the same purpose). Rosmarinus officinalis (sharing 36 common metabolites with Melissa), Origanum vulgare (sharing 45 common metabolites with Melissa) and Piper nigrum (sharing 37 secondary metabolites with Melissa) are remedies with a high degree of metabolic similarity and will help the Melisa plant to defend herself correctly against the plagues.
In general, it can be helpful to apply “live bionosode” to your garden made from its own soil. Take samples from different parts of your soil, mix them in a single bag, and then fill half of a bottle with this soil and add physiological serum, then leave it a week in a cool and undisturbed place. After that, you will perform a conventional centesimal dynamization, but always performed in physiological serum (dilution 1: 100 and 100 succussions in each potency until reaching the potency 3 CH) all made in physiological serum until this moment, the last 4 CH potency will be made in alcohol at 30%, (you can use a little Scotch whiskey if you do not have laboratory ethyl alcohol). Determine the amount of liquid you will need to apply in your garden (for example 200 liters). Put 20 ml of 4 CH in 1880 ml of water and make 100 vigorous sucussions, then pour these two liters into a 188 liter container and perform one hundred turns to one side and a hundred turns to the other one with a wooden stick. Spray this liquid in all of your garden.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
What treatment would you advise against Buxus moth. I tried spraying with Bombyx 200K but this didn’t seem to have any result. The moth and its larva are causing problems to Buxus plants. Nearby grows Hydrangea and a Magnolia tree. I live near Antwerp, Belgium (postal code 2020). We have a mixed climate with rather warm but rainy summers and wet winters.
The Cydalima perspectalis (“Buxus moth”) is an unadapted pest of oriental origin (just like the Buxus spp. plants), C. perpectalis, difficult to control because it has the ability to sequester the alkaloid contained in Buxus spp. which is supposed to defend the plant against the insect and transforms it into a harmless substance for the plague which is defending the proper C. perspectalis against it predators. You can apply Ricinus communis 6 CH with olive oil as an adjuvant or Datura stramonium 4 CH or Nicotiana glauca 6 CH to eliminate the pest. In any case, it is necessary to be quite constant. Use it in the spray application during the active phase of the larvae, making sure it is applied with the thinnest drop size possible so it reaches all the larvae. In order to persuade the adult insects to oviposit in the plants of Buxus spp., you can apply Ruta graveolens 6 CH as preventive treatment with coconut oil as adjuvant.
I am a chiropractor in Los Angeles and live in Southern California in Westwood Hills (postal code 90024). We have beautiful, mature 60 year old Sycamore trees that have a fungal infection that leaves wet spots and now white and yellow exudate. The National Arbor Service has treated the trees to inhibit polyphagus shot hole borer, and used Tebuject capsules and Imicide capsules by injection and drenching. Here is a description of polyphagus shot hole borer:
Our neighbors’ trees have the same problem and are being treated in the same manner without any results. Can we save these trees and give these people a new experience about the power of homeopathy? I have been studying homeopathy with excited anticipation after reading the article about Helix Tosta and bug control Please, though, I do need some guidance as this would be my first experience treating trees. (See photos below)
Thank you so much,
Euwallaecea sp. (Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer so-called PSHB) is one of the effects of climatic change, in this case in Platanus occidentalis and other trees. You should apply Berberis vulgaris 12 CH alternated with Nicotiana glauca 6 CH and Pimpinela anisum 6 CH. Ganoderma applanatum 6 CH is to be applied once a month to revitalize the tree and increase sap flow. It is necessary to apply the homoeopathy solution on the trunk and branches once every two weeks and also on the soil surrounding the area, delimited by the shade of the tree crown at noon. It is important to understand that what actually causes the insect to come is the trees’ low vitality (caused by climatic changes mainly concerning the regime of rains and temperature) and what can really end up killing the tree is the fungus (not the insect itself), specifically the reinfection of the symbiotic fungus of the Euwallaecea sp., Fusarium euwallaceae.
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