Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.
Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here: www.icomenius.edu.mx
A Materia Medica and Repertory for Plants: Mark Moodie hosts the website “Considera”, which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy .The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting. https://considera.org/hrxmatmed.htm
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
I have a maple tree that has been sick for a few years. I’ve tried remedies: Thuja, Silica, Psorinum. They did not help. What can you suggest to help to cure the maple tree? Attaching a picture. The Maple tree leaves have white spots. They are dry and curl to the inside. The color of the leaves changed and it’s lighter than it should be. The tree has been sick for a few years. The tree is Japanese Maple. The tree is in Thornhill, Ontario, Canada. ( A suburb or Toronto)
Temperatures vary every year. This Summer: August: night time: 8 – 14 Celsius, daytime: 19 – 22 Celsius. July was a little warmer, June about the same as August. Humid weather, frequent rainfall. I live in the area where a lot of trees are sick. I can’t grow anything. Trees that belong in the city are being replaced often.
The problem in your Acer palmatum seems to be related to the low vitality of the tree and presence of Verticilium sp. fungus, Thuja and Silica are not indicated in this case, so when we look back to Hahnemann’s principle “simila similibus curantur” the best remedy is not the “antifungic” one. In this case the remedy is precisely another fungus similar to Vertiicilium sp. The fungus is sent by the holon because it detects weakness of the tree and is in charge of invading its vascular system, causing the typical spots of discoloration and a kind of death that seems to descend in the plant until its death.
Inoculum of beneficial Trichoderma sp. should be applied in microdoses. It can prevent these attacks since the Trichoderma occupies the space and defends the plant like its vital territory. Another way (don´t combine them together) is to strengthen the vitality of the tree and the circulation of sap in the vascular system of the tree by applying Ganoderma applanatum 12 CH in foliar form, and in the soil, Ganoderma lucidum is also very useful, depending on which of these two remedies is present in your holon.
Dear Dr Radko Tichavsky
I am a regular reader of Ask the Plant Doctor. I have acquired a fascination for your concept of holon. Love you Sir! I undertook a Chili plantation at Wardha, which is in the state of Maharashtra in Western India. Average annual rainfall here is around 1100 mm. Out of this almost 90 % is during the period of June to September. Temperature from June to September varies from 27 to 35-37. Climate tropical.
We make chili beds in the first week of June and plant them around the middle first to second week of July. Besides other organic means like cow manure etc, I try to depend on agrohomeopathy. We face a leaf-curl problem in the early season and dieback later. Last year I had used Thuja 6 with little success. This year I have given one spray of Thuja 7 days back so far. Sending photos.
Farm Healthy plants around 60 % of crop
Plants with wrinkles & curls 40 % of crop Rare 0.5 % stunted plants
Should I continue to spray Thuja, and at what intervals? Are there alternatives? Please guide.
Dear Manish Saryam,
Thank you for your preference and resonance with holohomeopathy. The leave curl problems are related to the presence or viruses generally transmitted by whiteflies. So it is very important to intercalate every 5-6 plants with different accompanying plants, mainly Ruta graveolens, Rosmarinus officinalis, Foeniculum officinalis, Ocymum basilicum, to avoid the whiteflies. (This insect will be increased if you use animal manure fertilization). Sometimes, the agricultural producers are reluctant to intercalate the plants mentioned arguing the lack of space, but high vitality and productivity of the plants will be a fair reward for this extra effort on the part of the farmer.
My homeopathic suggestions are: soil nosode 6 CH at the beginning of the season, Calcarea carbonica 12 CH every two or three weeks foliarly, Ricinus communis (from the seeds) 12 CH when it increases the incidence of insects and application of hydrolate of leaves of Ricinus communis in microdoses foliarly and to the soil as a contribution of nitrogen, instead of cow manure or excrements of other animals. The plants are essentially vegetarian (eat plants in a state of decomposition in the form of compost) and are not mostly excrementivorous. The application of cow or other animal´s excrement in large quantities increases the presence of insects transmitting the virus. So the application of plant compost should be best.
Dear Radko Tichavsky:
I live in the southeastern United States, in a mountainous area. The elevation is 650 meters; annual high temp is 19.4°C; average low is 7°C. Average rainfall is about 0.9 meter. We have a type of hemlock tree named Tsuga caroliniana. It is an evergreen in the pine family (NOT Conium maculatum). A healthy tree can reach 21 meters. For two (human) generations, the trees are increasingly infested with woolly adelgid (native to East Asia). The hemlocks in this part of the country are being ravaged. The insect feeds by sucking sap from hemlocks and spruces.
There are two commonly used control options, one of which is toxic to beneficial elements in the soil and to wildlife (the insecticide is called imidacloprid). The other method is a spray with horticultural oil. Both obviously have their drawbacks; horticultural oil sprays may be effective but have to be repeated often, every year and expensive on large trees. Do you have any suggestion about homeopathic treatment?
Thank you for your help.
Dear Webster Williams,
The Adelges tsugae is a fairly persistent pest not only in Tsuga caroliniana but also in other types of Tsuga sp. Once infected the tree can die within three years. Treatments with neonicotinoids such as Imidaclprid represent an important risk for colonies of bees and other insects and generally produce greater imbalances in the holon. A. tsugae is very sensitive to some fungi that normally reside in forest soils, its pathogenic (maladaptation) action is a result of a disconnection of the holon (in this case between tree crowns and between the soil microbiota) because it is an exotic pest, an introduced organism. Soil fungi such as Lecanicillium lecanii and Beauveria bassiana (commercially available) are especially lethal to Adelges tsugae.
In order to control the insect, a two-stage bionosode application is performed: prepare a hydrolate of mulch from the forest soil in the part of the forest called attractor. Attractors are zones that are distinguished by a specially vitalized growth of the hemlock tree that are not unaffected by the pest. Attractors are places or areas where vitality intensifies and are an important source of beneficial organisms for the rest of the holon.
You can fill a 200-liter jar and add half the volume of the mulch and half the volume of water by adding two kg of brown sugar. Wait for about a week (during hot days it may be less) and then dilute this hydrolate in proportion of 1:100 in water by performing 100 turns with a wooden stick to the right and 100 turns to the left. This remedy is sprayed on the trees affected by Adelges tsugae, in three exposures with two weeks away. Once you observe dead insects, collect them and perform a hydrolate of them, dynamizing all the time in water to the 6 CH potency and apply the remedy by spraying it on the trees with the rest of the pests, finishing the second part of the application of bionosode and healing process.
I live in India (Rajasthan) and do Polyhouse Farming of cucumbers. Nematodes are a very big problem. We use earth in polyhouse. The fertilizer used is dnpk, Zn, mn, mg, copper,fe, etc and before sowing use cow, buffalo natural fertilizer.
Is there a way to solve this?
Dear Gagngasahay Kumawat,
When we talk about the work of fluid or subtle agriculture, also called holohomeopathy, sometimes people ask if the holohomeopathy replaces nutrition and of course I answer, that is not so. The holohomeopathy can influence the processes, mainly those dependent on the formation and function of the secondary metabolites, responsible for the communication of the plant with the other living organisms in the holon, and also on the plant defenses against the pathogens.
Nutrition mainly impacts the primary metabolites, and among them are the most important carbohydrates, amino acids, lipids, proteins and other substances necessary for the life of the plant. But nutrition depends not only on the chemical composition (NPK macronutrients, and micronutrients) but also on its coordination with secondary metabolism. For example, when heavy metals are present in the soil (which is often the case when artificial fertilizers are used), some plants produce biochemicals called chelators that have the ability to the remove toxicity of heavy elements and to drag them beyond the reach of the roots, protecting the plant.
Another example may be the nitrogen added in the form of ammonia for example to the soil. But in nature it never happens like that. Nitrogen in any of its forms is naturally accompanied by secondary metabolites, bactericidal substances, fungicides, insecticides, chelators etc. which complement their action and functions in the organism of the plant. That is to say, it is not the same to apply nitrogen in chemical form, in animal excrement, or the result of the composting of plants. While the first two ways of providing nitrogen generate imbalances, nutritional excesses, toxicities and consequent nutritional deficiencies perturb the vital dynamis of plants and holon. The third way, the gentler of the three, contributes vitality, balance and harmony in addition to providing some secondary metabolites that can survive intact by composting, adding important plant defenses, aids, and supplements to the plant.
Nematodes have an important role in the holon, mainly to eliminate and reduce heavy metals, which accumulate in the clayey soil and in the soils with the use of chemical fertilizers, or with the application of manure from animals housed and fed with food with a high content of heavy elements. That is to say, the more artificial fertilizers you use, the more heavy elements will accumulate in the soil. This will prevent the good absorption of the macro and microelements essential for the health of the plants, needing more fertilizers and calling for more nematodes in the soil. The more manure you use, the less fertile the soil will be in the long term and the more problems of plant sucking insects acting in the holon.
Saying it simply, plants are vegetarians and they mainly eat the decomposed tissues of other plants in the form of compost. They do not eat elements of the Mendeleyev table in isolated or separated form (NPK) and they do not consume mass quantities of animal manures.
My recommendation is to eliminate fertilization with artificial fertilizers and animal manure and to substitute it with fertilization by vegetable compost. Make much of Canavalia ensiformis, apply tea-compost of good mature vegetal compost and apply the following homeopathic remedies, depending on the observed symptoms:
Opuntia Ficus-indica 6 CH every two weeks, Zingiber officinalis (from rhizoma) 6 CH, Dacus carota (from root, plant and seeds) 6 CH, Arachis hypogaea 6 CH, Zea mays (roots) 6 CH, and Canavalia ensiformis (roots) 6 CH.