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The Plant Doctors – March 2014


Mark Moodie gives a preamble to this month’s question and answer session: 


Dear Readers

We received a lot of questions this month. Dr Waris has been able to come up with remedies which he is confident will address the individual situations, and he has shared his answers.  Last month I grumbled because I wanted to hear from readers what happened next, and some of you answered that you wanted to know what happened earlier, ie what insights give Dr. Waris the confidence to prescribe the remedies he suggests. This is good! I really think that we learn initially by imitation and by adopting dogmas from teachers and friends, but we really grow up when we understand why something is done so that we can be creative and forge our own answers as time goes on. We are, I further assume, all in different stages along this continuum, working with a mixture of assumption and insight, experience and hope.

My particular interest is to squeeze our common discipline towards understanding and away from unquestioning repetition so that we can be increasingly effective, even when faced with new situations.

How might this be achieved? For instance, let us consider diagnosis alone, before prescription and potency is even contemplated. What do we need to know to make a valid diagnosis? One prescriber will feel confident just knowing the pathologist’s title for the complaint. For that person as soon as s/he hears there are, for example, “slugs”, the prescription ‘helix tosta’ will leap to mind. Job done. Another prescriber may want to know more: what is the plant that is troubled by slugs and what has been the weather in the last days, and is this a problem for the region or just this garden? Is this slug-infested plant the only host for the slugs? What is the soil like? In what continent are these plants? Are they raised on soluble fertiliser or humus? What other issues are manifest? If one puts this into the language of the Organon we are asking to appreciate the totality of the symptoms.

It is my experience that we are sometimes fortunate to select an effective remedy just knowing the single symptom – ie slug – but I assume we will increase our success rate when we have that bigger picture and can orientate ourselves within that fuller totality.

Agrohomeopathy is a very young discipline. It is a tiny little baby, nursed by a very few unfunded boffins.Although it has great potential there are differing opinions on how it should be raised. I am convinced that agrohomeopathy has an older sibling, one in the beautiful but difficult teenage years, which is called biodynamics. Both biodynamics and agrohomeopathy come from the same root and so have much to teach and learn from each other. (I can back up that assertion but I don’t have the energy today, so take it as a Mark Moodie dogma for now.) If I were to approach the questions in this month’s column from a biodynamic perspective I would ask all those extra questions above and more about the manuring of the plant, the light and warmth, the surrounding countryside and the water etc.

Dr Waris had not come across biodynamics until we discussed our approaches and he is right to remain with the remedies that he has found effective. He is a very busy man with two clinics, a pharmacy for hand-made remedies, and his research work into agrohomeopathy. This is just his homeopathic work. He also writes newspaper columns and has family duties and charitable work. As the Hpathy.com deadline approaches each month I am concerned whether he can find time to address your questions but each time answers arrive in my email before the time runs out, and I send it in to fill this column. It is amazing that he finds time for us and I am intensely grateful. I am not willing to pressure him further to support his prescription with long explanations each month, but Dr Waris and I will come together again to write about his approach in some detail. We already have a few hours of recordings in preparation for a publication but there is more to do.

As a broad-brush spoiler I can say that Dr Waris works with the human materia medica and extracts that which he can transfer to the situation with plants. He also works with the miasms and clearing these so that disease does not have a chance to become manifest. His independently assessed work with mealy bug on cotton alone would give one confidence that this path has merit. Despite approaching agriculture from seemingly different streams (there is no friction between us), Dr Waris and I agree that you can’t argue with evidence. It is a neutral arbiter. If something is tried and is found to be effective, the debate falls away to secondary importance – or is invigorated. That is why I keep asking for stories of what you have found effective and that’s why I have put together a means for those stories to be collected in the materia medica and repertory.

At the moment the materia medica – www.considera.org/matmed – is more complete than the repertory – www.considera.org/rep – because of time pressure. I am a one-man-band beavering away in the spare time that I can find between family and business commitments. The repertory and materia medica are designed so that anyone can consult them and add to them. Everyone can add their experiences on-line or by post.We may be creating something of lasting value.

It is also the first place to try if you have a question. For instance, in the mail this month we have Susan Hormozi, who has some questions about mildew on Jasmin. If we put ‘mildew’ into the search page of the materia medica ) we get:

All-c.Allium Cepa
BerberisBerberis Vulgaris
Kali-m.Kali Muriaticum
Kali-n.Kali Nitricum
Lact-ac.Lactic Acid
Mag-s.Magnesia Sulphurica
nitricum acidumNitricumAcidum
Kali-pmKali Permanganicum
Nat salNatrumSalicylicum
BiP – M2Biplantolmykos II
Maj-AMApple Majic
CuprumCuprum Metallicum


As with the human materia medica one needs then to check each remedy in the list and see which best fits one’s own situation. As more of you have experiences to share this list will be more definitive and authoritative. Without sharing experiences by submitting them we will be left with intuition, conjecture, and debates between different world views!

By all means, if the materia medica isn’t forthcoming, ask Dr Waris who seems willing to continue to offer his opinion. I will occasionally pitch in with some thoughts or ask for more detail. If you’ve read this far you’ll know the kind of information I think is relevant.

So I am wishing for more detailed questions and others are wishing for more detail on the choice of remedy. I would like more energy and time and for the meantime we will do what we can with the tools and energy and insight we have at our disposal.

Another reader asked for clarification on how to apply the remedies. I hope we will remember to add the following appended paragraphs to each monthly column in the future:

Mark Moodie



Kavi suggested this: “ When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.”


Christiane Maute has used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30l of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)


Mark Moodie says: Try the above. As agrohomeopathy is so young please do take these as no more than initial suggestions. In biodynamics we make a distinction between remedies that irrigate a plant and those that are sprayed in the air. Kavi often said you don’t take a shower in the remedy, you drink it and because a plant drinks through its roots that’s why you apply it there. But the stoma on the underside of the leaves are also paths into the plant so I would argue with Kavi. There you have it – a difference of opinion. Perhaps frustrating but I hope you will sigh and take it as a permission to experiment – AND REPORT BACK! (Thanks)


March 2014 Plant Doctor


Readers Questions:


Mark Moodie and Dr. Iftikhar Waris


Dear Hpathy,

I’d be interested in trying to run a trial, but I’m not sure how practically achievable it would be. I would like to be able to try and control Charlock, a weed, in my spring oats. The best that I could hope to do would be something sprayed from a knapsack sprayer.
I’d also be interested in a trial to try and control disease in winter wheat. I’m growing 30 acres of milling wheat this year. The oat acreage is significantly higher. Charlock is my main weed that I have to contend with.

Best wishes
Oliver Dowding


Dr. Waris: Dear Oliver, you can used  SILICEA 200 & MEZEREUM 200 to control the Charlock.

Mark Moodie: Hello Oliver. We have met. Have you considered the biodynamic method of peppering? Details can be found here: https://considera.org/downloads/peppers.pdf [1]. Also see Ron Blincoe’s experiences at the bottom of this article.

Hi Plant Doctors

Question:  I do have a major problem with a certain type of ant in my property and adjacent properties. In summer during the wet season these ants dig up little mounds of earth right through the property especially a day or two before rain is coming. They are tiny ants pale orange/brown. These mounds ruin the grass as they cover the grass and after the rainy season there is a lot of bare dirt instead of grass where these mounds were. I collected some of these ants and burnt them and made a homeopathic remedy in 8x. I sprayed the property (1 acre) in October last year and two more times but no change.  Any ideas?

[Feedback: I live north of Brisbane in Australia and we have sub tropical weather here. Three years ago I had many slugs in my vegetable garden and used natural slug pellets and beer traps with no good results. I then got some helix toasta 30c and sprayed the garden with this about 2 weeks apart. I did not see much results that summer. Next summer and right up to now I have not had any slugs at all. Just some feedback for you!}

Anna Morningstar


Dr.Waris: Dear Anna: You can use MEZEREUM 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 for this problem.

Mark Moodie: I put ants into the search function at considera.org and got almost every remedy in the MM! It seems that I have to raise my programming game so it only finds whole words and not ants as in plANTS etc.  Like I said, it’s a young discipline with boffins ….

Good morning,
I have been trying to remove a plague of English Ivy from my backyard on Long Island. I am planting (gradually) native plants for bird, bees, and other pollinators for my delight and for the native ecology. For as much ivy as I’ve pulled out over the past 3 growing seasons, I almost cannot keep up with this plant’s vigorous growth. It is widespread. Would you please recommend medicines which I can use to get rid of this ivy, but which will not harm my native plants?

Thank you very much.

Lynn Koch


Dr. Waris: Dear Lynn, you can use SILICEA 200 & MEZEREUM 200 to control the Ivy.

Dear Plant Doctors

During the winter months we bring all our plants indoors and some of them have developed white mildew. It is sticky and difficult to get rid of. Last year we lost our Jasmine plant that we had for 15 years to mildew (it just didn’t recover ). Any suggestions to save the ones that have this year?

Thank you

Susan Hormozi


Dr.Waris:  SILICEA 200 will solve your problem.

Dear Plant Doctors,


I am certified to grow on Maui Cannabis  Sativa. Unlike Industrial Hemp, these plants with up to 60 percent THC attract all types of bugs. Netting does not dissuade insects from munching on the plants.  Because I am using these plants to support cancer patients (with oils to reduce symptoms) I cannot use pesticides. Have you suggestions any suggestions beyond misting leaves with a baking soda to cut acidity?

Thank you



Dr Waris:  Hi Laura.  Causticum  200 & Acid Nitricum 200 are the solution  of your problem.

Dear Sir,

Namasthe.  Our friends are facing a termite problem in Pomogranate in Chitradurga areas of Karnataka which is receiving very low rainfall. Please give us a remedy. Also, we have problems of houseflies in our home and also mosquitoes. Do we have any remedy?

With regards

Aruna Kumara


Dr Waris: You Can use ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & Mercuriussol 200 alternately.

Dear Sirs,

Can you suggest remedies for fungal and/or viral infections in a pomegranate garden?



DrWaris: You can use PSORINUM  200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200for Fungal & Viral infection.

Dear Agro-homoeopathists,

I am new to this website, so this is the first time I’ve seen your column on plants and crops.  A great concept!  I am presently having problems with mould growing in my wheat grass (grown domestically in trays for drinking the juice). The current high humidity in NSW is probably not helping. If you have any ideas on a homoeopathic solution I’d be very grateful.

Thank you,



Dr. Waris: You can use Natrum Mur 12D for this problem.

Dear Plant Doctor,

Have you any advice to stop Guava fruit developing insects inside while on the tree itself?

V K Aggarwal


Dr. Waris: You can use CHELONE 200 twice a week in the root.


We have recently moved into an apartment open on the south side. We don’t get adequate sunlight onto this area, so we can hardly grow any plants there. January to June, we get some sun light onto these balconies. Is there any medicine which can help the plant’s growth in absence of sunlight even if it is an outdoor plant like Tulasi (Ocimum sanctum) which we Indians consider sacred and have to grow at every house. I have 2 pots both planted with the Tulasi plants and both had dropped all their leaves after we moved into the apartments. Now after January, when they started getting little sun light, they are bearing the leaves again but they are very tiny and don’t look healthy.

Thanks & regards,


Dr.  Waris:   MEDORRHINUM 200 spray after every fifteen days.

I have 20 medium sized flowerpots with different plants suited to my area [hot; less rainy].  But to my displeasure all leaves are turning yellowish over one month. I tried different medications, as per a local botanist, without any results. Can you suggest a remedy this?  In my area all Neem trees are drying out with their leaves turning to red and drying up.


Guruprasad Nittur


Dr.Waris:  Dear Guruprasad, the first week you use GLONINE 200 & the second week ALFALFA 3x, the third week CHINA 3D and the fourth  Spray  LECITHINUM 3D.

Dear sir,

I have a mango tree Amrapaliaged 15 years. The tree gets lot of flowers and fully blooms, but then flowers start falling, then gradually fruits also fall continuously and lastly I get around 50-60 kg of fruit. The shoots carrying the fruit get black at the tip and ultimately fall down. Please suggest a homeopathic remedy for it.

Thanks and regards,

Achal Singh Bhati


Dr. Waris:  You can use the following remedies :


2-Medorrhinum/ 200

3- CalcareaCarb /200

4- Syphilinum/200

5-Sulphur/ 200

Dear Sir,

My Ocimum Sanctum plants dry and become dead every winter. What is the remedy for this problem?


Dr R K Gupta, Delhi


Dr. Waris: You Can Use SILICEA200& KALI PHOS 200 alternately after every fifteen days.

Dear Plant doctor,

What can I do about squash bugs causing the early death of cucumbers and zucchini?

Rachel Chaput


Dr. Waris: Dear Rachel, you can use MEZEREUM 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200.

Dear Sir,

My tomato plants get wilted even when they are flowering and producing fruits. The plants die in one or two days. So also the Chilli plant. The leaves get wrinkled and shrivelled. The okra (ladies finger) plants, when they are one or two inches high, suddenly one morning we find them wilted and flat on the ground. We don’t know what is happening to these plants. Please advise!

Elsy John


Dr. Waris: You can use SILICEA 200 & PSORINUM 200 Alternately.

Dear Plant Doctors,

I would love to keep many indoor house plants but always end up taking them outside for one reason. The problem is a small fly or some kind of insect (it is dark/black, extremely small) which multiplies very quickly and seems to make its home in the soil. I do not think I am overwatering at all. I’ve tried everything regarding the soil moisture/cleanliness. I’m in Southern California. Our climate is warm, dry and pleasant year round.  Can you please help with this problem?

Thank you so much,


Dr. Waris: You can use CANTHARIS 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 for this problem.

Dear Plant Doctors,

I have two almond trees and one apricot tree that appears to be suffering from the same problems. The trees seem badly affected by black staining on their bark, and they are oozing amber sap profusely.   The oldest almond also appears to have been attacked by white ants at some stage, and the wood in the middle of the tree seems to be dead, but enough is still surviving that the branches still are in leaf and bear fruit.  The apricot tree only has one large oozing amber Sap spot. The almond trees are also infested with black ants, presumably for the oozing sap! Please help me restore some kind of health to these trees!

Thank you
Sarah M


Dr. Waris: Spray your trees With SILICEA 200 after every week.

Could plants have a constitutional remedy?



Dr.Waris: NO

Hi Mark, Dr. Waris,

I have just found out about your column at hpathy, and was wondering if I could ask you a question on behalf of a friend. My friend asks –“Why do my lemon trees (still very young) look sick? One is all yellow with dark green “veins” on the leaves and the other seems to be dropping leaves. Even after feeding them the right stuff, things do not improve.”

With warmest good wishes,



Dr.Waris: The solution to your friend’s problem is given below:

First Week, Spray AMBRA GRISEA 3D

Second Week, Spray with ALFALFA 3D

Third Week, Spray with KALI PHOS 3D


Dear Mark and Dr. Waris

I live in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, and have a very strong, young wild-fig tree growing extremely vigorously next to my house. It was planted before I moved in and was at that stage still a small young tree, and I did not know how vigorous and exceedingly intrusive, powerful, and extensive a root system it has.

The fig tree has a vigorous root structure that has invaded my house, cracked tiles, flooring, windows and walls.  It now threatens to crack the swimming pool.  I attempted to lessen its root growth toward the house by severing the enormous root structure at its base extending toward the house, hoping it would then only continue to send out its roots in the opposite direction where they are also.

The reason for my lengthy mail to you is to enquire – would there be ANYTHING homeopathic I could administer to the severed root system running toward my house, in order to curtail its growth in this direction?  I really do not want to poison it or kill it completely, knowing the long-term terrible consequences on the Earth, but am desperately needing to act immediately.

My sincerest gratitude



Dr. Waris: You Can use following three medicines with great hope:




Dear plant doctor,

Is there any remedy against the excessive growth of Titricumrepens in my vegetable garden? I already tried isopathy with potentized Titricumrepens and also burned dry Titricumrepens and sprayed the ashes. Is did not help.

Kind regards,

Henny Grasselier


Dr. Waris: SILICEA 200 will help you.

Hello Mark Moodie sir,

I am a homeopathic physician practicing in Bangalore,India. My family has a Pomegranate farm 180 kms from Bangalore. The land has been used for the first time and the pomegranate crop is the first crop there. Now the challenge is ‘termite infection’. The termites eat up at the roots and with in 4-6 weeks the plant crashes down. Now every 10-15 plants out of 1000 plants has been attacked by termites.

Atmosphere there is very hot/temperate climate. Attaching few pictures for your reference.

Best regards


Dr.  Waris:  ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & PETROLEUM 200 with irrigation.

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Dear Mark and Dr.Waris,

I continue to read this first every month, but you have to admit, Kaviraj explained more. I hope you or Dr. Waris will start explaining a bit more. I am interested in his remedies as some of them I’ve never encountered. Also, he uses high potencies which I believe Kaviraj did not do and I’m interested in the potencies issue. Please don’t quit!


Dr. Waris:  Our suggestions all depend on the results of experiments which we’ve done in the field on plants and different crops. The more dynamic medicine is more effective, so that is why we prefer high potencies.

Dear Mark and Dr Waris,

For mealy bugs you have suggested Antimony Tart and Mezereum. Should they be mixed or sprayed separately? If separately, which one should be used first? Or if only one of the two is to be used, which should be preferred? I have a Mealy Bug problem in tomatoes. Weather is gradually warming up in my part of India.

Thank you

Pranaykumar D.Bhatt


Dr.Waris: ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & PETROLEUM 200 are the best medicine for mealy bugs.

Dear Plant Doctor,

Very interesting articles. Kindly suggest what remedies are to be used for Rose flowering plants for best results.

Dr.A. Jeevanjaya


Mark Moodie: I think Dr. Waris missed your question so you are left with me, the fellow who has more questions for you, than you have for me. Please read this month’s introduction and you will know what I want. However, there are a few remedies which are suggested to promote flowering in general. Why not have a look at the yarrow preparation of biodynamic agriculture:

Dear Mark and Dr. Waris,

Have you any ideas for controlling slugs that are having a very good day munching on my plants?  I tried the platters of beer to little or no avail.

Thanks and I will report back.

Kkathleen Raskin


Mark Moodie: See all the above and try .  Helix tosta 6x is the first ‘shot from the hip’.

To start the health of a plant preventive, I always used and still use, Silicea 6 x, as Kaviraj told me. After that, you have to look in the repertory of Kaviraj or buy the book written by him. I helped our 600 palm trees with the isotherapy of the beasts, the larve and the eggs. Kaviraj told me to give a try and it worked.

While in the south of Portugal and Spain all the palm trees died. Every month I applied this during the whole year. I am still happy with my beautiful landscape of palm trees instead of a cemetery of dead trees.You all have to buy the book of Kaviraj and you will learn how to treat your plants. He never fails in giving good answers.

Henriette Bonda Verdoorn

Greetings Drs. Moodie and Waris,

Please hang in there. I plan on writing back with my results as per getting an avocado tree to set fruit and how the drought plays out this summer. Since I last submitted my question we have received 12 inches of rain in a single “pineapple express” storm over a three day weekend. It does not end the drought but did come at a very good time to help recharge the topsoils and help plants in imminent stress. I think that is one of the pitfalls of any agro-homeopathic outcome studies….variables keep changing! And of course, we are having a very mild winter which is conducive to blossom formation on the avocado, so if fruit gets set I will never know for sure if it was the remedies or the good weather or both. Plus, the world needs agro-homeopathy now more than ever with climate change, bee colony collapse disorder, increasing insect populations, etc. etc. I plan on slogging along, it seems to be destiny of a sort, even if an uphill battle. I think we need to reach out to everyone in the agricultural community, even at the risk of co-option.

Claire Green


I have quite a few house plants. About a year ago I tried several Streptocarpus. Some look healthy but don’t bloom, others dry up and die even though they have been watered. Usually the problem is with the ones I’ve been able to propagate. I wonder if it could be some sort of fungus. Any suggestions would be appreciated.I’ve also got scale on a Meyer lemon and on a kumquat which I put out for the summer then bring indoors during the winter. I’ve used something called Fine Oil which helps keep the scale under some control. Is there something which would work better?

Thank you for your help.



DrWaris:  SILICEA 200& ANT.TART 200 will help you.

Dear Sirs,

I had a problem with scale insects on my citrus. The first tree died because I did not do anything! When the second became infected I collected a few insects, ground them in a mortar with alcohol and made a 6X remedy which I diluted and sprayed on the scale colonies. After three applications some days apart I could not find a single scale insect. The basic homoeopathic principle that if you can identify the pest you have found the remedy still applies.

Ron Blincoe

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