Introduction: The first place to address your question is the online materia medica – www.considera.org/matmed – and the less-complete repertory – www.considera.org/rep. The repertory and materia medica are designed so that anyone can consult them and add to them. Everyone can add their experiences on-line or by post.
If you find a remedy, here are some suggestions for how to apply these to the plants:
Kaviraj suggested this: “When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.”
Christiane Maute has used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30l of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)
Mark Moodie says: Try the above. As agrohomeopathy is so young please do take these as no more than initial suggestions. In biodynamics we make a distinction between remedies that irrigate a plant and those that are sprayed in the air. Kavi often said you don’t take a shower in the remedy, you drink it and because a plant drinks through its roots that’s why you apply it there. But the stoma on the underside of the leaves are also paths into the plant so I would argue with Kavi. There you have it – a difference of opinion. Perhaps frustrating but I hope you will sigh and take it as a permission to experiment – AND REPORT BACK! (Thanks)
The Plant Doctors
Mark Moodie, Dr. Iftikhar Waris, Pawan Singhania
I have a cherry tree that starts to lose leaves in early July – normally they fall in late September early October (Denmark)
See attached photo – any suggestions?
Dr. Waris: Well Lars, you Can use AMBRA GRISEA 3D, KALIUM PHOSPHORICUM 3D and ALFALFA 3D for this problem.
PAWAN: This seems to be a nutritional disorder subsequently infected perhaps by some fungal attack. Please treat the soil with some good quality compost which preferably should also contain some poultry litter, magnesium and citrus or banana leaves during its making. The compost must attain the temperature of 65 deg. Celsius. It should be repeated again after two months. Spray the leaves with Bordeaux mixture to check fungal infection.
Dear Mr. Moodie and Dr. Waris and Pawan,
Here in West-Germany we have increasing infestation of Horse Chestnut with the leaf miner Cameraria ohridella and the new bacterium Pseudomonas Syngiae. In my small hometown there is one almost 300 years old Chestnut situated on a hill beneath the grave-yard, suffering from the leaf miner Experts say it is also suffering from the bacterium, because there is a steady dying from branches in the crown. The main symptom of the Bacterium cannot be actually seen, usually it is a dark brown sap pouring through the bark of infected trees, loosening bark and shrinking cambium.
What can I do to minimize leaf miners, besides firing up fallen branches and leaves in autumn? What about the bacterium? In fact the tree lost a couple of branches in its crown in the last years, but this year its leaves are still green in spite of the leaf miner and in comparison to other Chestnut trees in the region, which show signs of an early autumn. There is a team of people watering the tree and using Arnica C200 to manage a lot of mechanical injuries of the past and they use effective microorganisms, so called “Bokashi” to better up the soil. What else can be done to strengthen the old white flowering horse chestnut?
Below are photos with the tree in its environment, the leaf miner and a close up from leaves. Maybe for about 50 years there has been a power station heated up with coal only two kilometres away. The power plant is gone now for approximately 15 years.
Dr. Waris: Hi Oliver. You can alternately spray MEZERUM 1M & SILICEA 1M after 7 days.
1. Leaf miner (Liriomyza huidobrensis) Fly Trap:
Install 30 cm x 30 cm yellow painted boards, coated with adhesive, at 60cm high above the ground, surrounding the trees. The yellow color is an attractant to the flies which will stick to the flies.
2. Wood ash made of by burning twigs, logs (and if possible of Eucalyptus) or from straw, maize cobs, etc. that could be dusted on the ground or even diluted and sprayed on leaves.
3. Take 250 gms of tobacco, 30 gms of liquid soap, 4 liters of water. Simmer the mixture for 30 minutes. Add a little slaked lime. Strain the mixture. Dilute taking 1 part of this tobacco decoction and mix with 4 parts of water and spray. Repeat every 15 days, until infection is controlled.
Mark Moodie: Hi Oliver. We have corresponded through Considera but for the reader of this column I would like to repeat that a lot of work was done in Holland with exactly this problem using homeopathically prepared biodynamic preparations and isopathic remedies now known as BactMin or BM3. There is a picture of this being applied in the Hague in the first edition of Kaviraj’s “Homeopathy for Farm and Garden”. This work was guided by Glen Atkinson of BdMax with whom you have corresponded and I know he was of the opinion that application throughout the tree is a real challenge. You may also be interested to read of recent successes with conifers in Colorado USA with remedies from Eureka in Italy. They make remedies that are placed beneath the trees. Please let us know what you try and what happens
Dear Plant Doctors,
We have a small garden and raise vegetables and fruit. This summer our lettuce, tomato and strawberries were destroyed by slugs. Is there a non-toxic way to prevent this problem next year?
Dr. Waris: Hi Miriam. You can use ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 1M, CHELONE 1M & CINA 1M alternately to control this problem.
Pawan: Andean Lupin (Lupinus mutabilis) seeds may be cooked and sprayed, undiluted onto the affected plants.
M Moodie: You will most often be directed to helix tosta with which many have had success. 3 experts and three opinons!!
I find a cotton-like substance and lice with waxy material under the leaves of some of my plants. Is there any remedy for the same? Kindly advise.
Dr. Waris: Well Shylaja, it might be Mealy Bug, so you can use ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 1M, CHELONE 1M & CINA 1M alternately to control this insect.
Pawan: It could be wooly aphids. Please try the tobacco decoction. Also try crushing some 50 gms of garlic cloves and mix with 500 ml of water. Dilute in 1:4 ratio and spray on affected parts. Repeat once every weak till you see controlled.
Further, plant some garlic bulbs randomly in the vegetable beds.