Dr. Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish), Organon de la Holohomeopatía and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.
New Video from Dr. Radko Tichavsky!
In this video, renowned Agrohomeopath Dr. Radko Tichavsky explains Holohomeopathy, the more advanced method of agrohomeopathy: https://youtu.be/GUUoO6Lt-U8 (English subtitles)
He is now offering a one-semester virtual diploma course in Holohomeopathy (in English). Learn how to analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here: www.icomenius.edu.mx CONTACT: [email protected]
Many readers asked about Radko Tichavsky’s books. Below is a photo of them. They are available in Spanish, Italian and Portuguese. For ordering or information: [email protected]
Editor’s Note: JT (Jenichen/Tichavsky) potency is often mentioned below. It is a centesimal dilution followed by 500 succussions or five hundred continuous turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 turns to the left (if handling larger volumes). The JT potency frequently has a better reaction in plants and it is very important in preparation of live bionosodes.
Hi Dr. Tichavsky,
We have an apple tree and it dried up suddenly. It’s a small, young tree just got its fruits this season. The fruits and tree dried up. I suspect fungal infection. What do you suggest? We are located in Canada, in Toronto. It’s summer here however it does rain at times. The tree had good had fruits but suddenly started dying. Attaching a picture of the tree.
Falak [email protected]
Dear Dr. Falak,
This definitely looks like a dieback from the pathogenic fungus Phymatotrichum omnivorum. One of the characteristics of this fungus is a kind of sudden death (the more you water the faster the death appears) and one of the characteristic features is that the dry leaves remain attached to the branches as if they were mummified.
In this degree of affection there are no remedies that can revive the tree. In this case it is necessary to remove the tree with all the roots and burn it. The same species should not be planted in its place, since the fungus has a great capacity to survive in the soil for more than 10 years through sclerotia (formed by compact, light-brown-black hyphae).
Before thinking of planting another tree in its place, open the hole and apply live bionosode 3 CH of Aloe vera gel, which contains different species of Bacillus spp. (B. subtilis, B. megaterium, B. stratosphericus, B. aerophillus, B. thuringuensis) all of them antagonistic to the fungus Phymatotrichum omnivorum.
Applications should be made twice a month for three months leaving the hole open so that the sun can enter. Only after this period can you think about planting another species of tree that is not susceptible to the fungus.
Our Redbud tree is 6-years old. This tree started thinning its leaves last year and I found a few dead branches. This year I noticed that the leaves did not fill out, and now there is a fungus type growth on the base of the tree and another about 12 inches up from the base (see picture). This was the second growth of fungus, the first happening early spring where I pulled it off and then sprayed it with Potassium Bicarbonate . I also gave it Arnica 200c. Is this tree dying and can it be saved? I’d really hate to lose it.
I live in Lancaster, PA (17540) which is East Coast U.S. Moderate temperature with warm summers and snowfall in winter. Moderate rainfall.
The Redbud Tree
Fungus growing on tree
What is shown in the picture of the Cercis canadensis (Redbud tree) is the fruit of the fungus, in fact when the fruit comes out the whole tree is already completely infected by the fungus. Applying remedies externally on the fruit does not make much sense since the infection is systemic throughout the tree inside.
Infection is caused by mechanical wounding of the tree usually during grass cutting or tilling of the soil around the tree. You could try to inoculate Trichoderma atroviride, an antagonistic fungus that devours the fungus that attacked your tree, but the probability of success is low, due to its superficial proliferation.
Removing the fruit of the fungus with a knife or detaching it from the trunk as you have done decreases the chance of sporulation and infection of other trees, but does not eliminate the fungal disease at all. The infection is probably due to the wood-decaying fungus of the Ganoderma sp. family. The photo shows it in an immature stage, making it difficult to identify with certainty.
Bacteria of the phylum Firmicutes, specifically Bacillus sp. are antagonistic to wood-decaying fungi on Cercis sp. and so are Arbuscular vascular fungi. Decrease irrigation and apply on the soil around the tree Aloe vera bionosode cico at 4 JT potency, once a week. It is also useful to apply Bacillus amyloliquefasciens highly antagonistic to fungi such as Ganoderma sp.. You can prepare live bionosode from the roots of Hedera helix at potency 4 JT.
We have a Rose polyhouse. We grow roses for commercial use. Our plants are infested with thrips and mites. Can you guide how to keep the plants pest free with the help of homeopathy?
Dr. Meeta Nihlani – Chhattisgarh, India
Dear Dr. Meeta,
Thrips and aphids are attracted to your roses by excess nitrogen in the plants (either of animal origin, for example in the form of cow dung or in the form of artificial fertilizer). Too much nitrogen produces large, juicy but also soft tissues on the surface, which are prone to be penetrated by aphids and thrips.
You can apply Phosphorus 6 CH and Calcarea carbonica 6 CH alternated with Boswellia sacra 6 JT (elaborated from incense resin TM, pulverized and diluted in alcohol at 70%). The dynamization is done in water and applied foliarly in the afternoon when the sun intensity decreases. Boswelia sacra can be applied once a week until the pest disappears.
I live in India and nowadays we are facing yellow bean virus on Indian Bean farms. The virus is a very serious problem now. Location is Nashik, State Maharashtra, India.
Nowadays Temperature is 23 Celsius. Temperature ranges from 10 to 39 degree Celsius.
Rainfall – Average Rainfall 1700 mm
Is there any remedy in homeopathy you can suggest?
The virus is disseminated among fields by viruliferous aphids, pollen, movement of contaminated seed, and by movement of contaminated equipment between fields. The most important thing is to control aphids, the main vectors of the virus, and to plant certified seed.
Once the plant emerges apply Rhizobium leguminosarum obtained from Trifolium spp. root nodules. Prepare a live bionosode from the nodules crushed in water (not chlorinated). Dynamize at 4 JT potency and apply foliarly on the bean, thus inducing a systemic resistance of the bean to the mosaic virus.
Hello Dr. Tichavsky:
I am from Karnataka, India. I am a BSc Horticulture Graduate. I wanted some solutions or remedies for some field crops. Can you guide me with remedies for the following problems:
Thrips in Capsicum (Green)
Panama wilt in Banana
Bacterial wilt in initial stages of all crops
Karnakata has a subtropical climate and right now it’s monsoon season.
Temperature in the morning : 28°C
Temperature at night : 18°C
Humidity : 79%
Rainfall : 157.55mm
Also, can you suggest any institute or university or any other association that would assist me to study Agrohomeopathy. I want to pursue this as my career. Anywhere in the world is okay for me. I just want to study Agrohomeopathy.
Hima [email protected]
The disease Panama wilt in banana is caused by the soil-borne fungus Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. cubense. The pathogen survives in the soil and penetrates to the roots, from where it moves slowly to the corm of the banana plant and produces clusters of chlamydospores that enable the fungus, which can persist in the soil even in the absence of its main host for more than 30 years. We use live bionosodes of Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus amyloliquefasciens (live bionosode from Aloe vera gel and Hedera helix root at potency 4 JT).
For thrips on Capsicum sp. we use Beauveria bassiana and apply thrips bionosode at potency 6 JT. This is applied even on plants without thrips to attract natural predators such as Aphidius spp., Aphidoletes aphidimyza and Hippodamia convergens and others.
It is important to observe the holon and when the predators appear cease the application of bionosode since to continue applying it could produce a counterproductive result.
Melia azedarach, Azadirachta indica, Allium sativum, Artemisa vulgaris, Ocimum bacilicum, at low potency (6 JT) also control thrips effectively. As for bacterial diseases in seedlings, much depends on the type of soil, and on the management of the microbiota.
In general, it can be said that the more biodiverse the microbiota is and the less the package of pesticides and artificial fertilizers is applied, the less pathogenicity is produced in the soil. If plants are successfully inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi or AM fungi from seed then bacterial diseases cease. You can apply pre-planting Ganoderma lucidum 4 JT (made from TM hydroalcoholic and dynamized in water).
I teach a semester course of agrohomeopathy and holohomeopathy, and you can ask for information at www.icomenius.edu.mx . In the past, two students from India have already participated and currently students from 5 countries are participating. We speak English, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese Czech, and Russian.
Hello Mr. Tichavsky,
My Dahlia plant is infected with black bugs. I just poured some homeopathic Coccinella on it in case they are aphids. Could you please tell how to treat it? The weather has been mostly cool and wet this year.
We live in the Pacific Northwest, about 90 miles north of Seattle, Washington, USA.
You can apply Boswellia sacra 4 JT (made from Catholic frankincense TM with a little potassium soap as an adjuvant. We also use live soil bionosode as it contains entomopathogenic fungi and protects Dahlia against parasites, including Metarhyzium annisoplae and Beauveria bassiana.
Dear Dr. Tichavsky,
We have a very bad woody weed here call Lantana. We do not want to use poison so wondered if there was a natural way to combat it.
I live in Toowoomba, Queensland Australia. The climate is warm, humid subtropical climate (with warm summers and cool winters).
Rainfall: Average annual rainfall, according to the Bureau of Meteorology, is 724 mm (28.5 in), which peaks in the warm season. Rainfall in the eastern suburbs along the Great Dividing Range nudges 1,000 mm (39 in) per year.
Ann Stratton [email protected]
Lantana sp. is originally a Mexican or perhaps South American plant but once introduced to other holons as an exotic plant they display great allelopathic potential. Once introduced into the holon they have the ability to inhibit the germination and vital progress of many native species.
To reduce the expansion of Lantana sp,. use essential oil of Eucalyptus globulus in potency 4 JT. It does not kill the plant completely but weakens it visibly. Then we use bionosode made from the ash of the plant (roots and the whole plant are burned), prepared in TM and applied in dynamization in water at potency 30 JT.
On the other hand, we use homeopathic preparations of Lantana camara precisely to control germination of other unwanted plants in economically important crops such as Cyperus rotundus, Mimosa pudica or Bidens pilosa.
How can I safely treat Woolly Aphids on apple trees? We are in southern counties in the UK, medium rainfall, fairly continuous throughout spring and summer March to July. The temperature ranges from 12 degrees C to 20C. We have a lot of overcast skies with high humidity throughout spring to summer. Cool damp changeable climate
In Eriosoma lanigerum, use Pyracantha coccinea 6 JT. It attracts the main parasitoid of the woolly aphid Aphelinus mali. The application is done from petal fall once a month until the pest is controlled. You can use essential oil of Azadirachta indica 6 CH mixed with Ricinus communis 6 CH
I read in one of your July answers about inoculating olive trees with a decoction of soil taken from under older local olive trees. Would this work the same for all species of tree? Can we use soil taken from the older paternal trees of the species.
Also, could I ask what carbonated water in particular?
The live bionosode is not a decoction. It is made and dynamized in non-chlorinated water at room temperature. The carbonated water is added as a stimulus and nutrition for the spores and bacteria in the soil, and yes, we use the method on other tree crops as well.
Older trees contain a large amount of biological information collected during their long life from higher trees forming a kind of epigenetic memory, knowledge about successful collaboration with microorganisms. The selection and the healthy state of the upper trees and the proximity to the trees to be inoculated are basic conditions for this intervention to be successful.
To select the zones of high biodiversity we first perform fractality analysis of satellite images, and only after establishing the attractors, i.e. zones of high fractality (and vitality), we then physically enter the zone and locate the candidate trees to be microbiota donors.
This operation of microbiota transplantation is more successful if applied on young trees (the younger the better) since the lignification of the roots decreases the probability of an effective inoculation. Prior to the application of bionosode, deep irrigation is carried out to facilitate the mobility of spores and bacteria in the soil.
Dear Dr. Tichavsky,
I live in Vienna Austria. It has been very dry here. My plants are in planters on a balcony and get lots of sun, and are very thirsty. The sunflowers’ leaves and flower petals are being eaten by crickets and the lower leaves turn brown and dry.
My tomato lower plants’ leaves are also drying up, despite watering. It’s very hot the last month or so, up to 30 plus degrees Centigrade. I water them in the afternoon when the sun is no longer shining on them as later encourages snails to visit.
Mt 3rd request is for the trees. There seems to be a virus (?) affecting them apart from the dryness. The leaves are yellowing with large brown spots and they are dropping. These trees are next to a lake, so presumably not short of water.
Thank you in advance – Marianne
Climatic changes hit various parts of the world. To give you an idea, tomatoes in Mexico withstand temperatures of 48 degrees. They belong to the Solanaceae family and have a great plasticity of response. In hot conditions it is necessary to increase the potassium supply, an element responsible for moving the leaves of the plant at the appropriate angle to reduce the absorption of ultraviolet rays, but also regulate the closure of stomata. Stomata are vents that all plants have on the underside of the leaves and that in very hot conditions are closed to prevent water loss.
For example Portulaca oleracea but also the leaves of Lactuca sativa contain a large amount of potassium. Liquefy a little of one of the two plants in water and use as irrigation water, and also apply Kalium carbonicum 6 CH on the soil of the plants.
Make sure that the water for your plants does not come directly from the tap. Leave the irrigation water in an open container for a day before using it for irrigation, as in hot weather the water companies usually increase the chlorination of water. Chlorinated water causes yellowing of plants.
You can spray sunscreens on the leaves of your plants, for example live bionosode of Aloe vera 6 JT, or algae preparations (for example Laminaria 6 CH or Ascophyllum nodosum 6 CH). Application of Silicea terra 3 CH foliarly also changes the refraction of the sun’s rays and decreases the temperature of the plant.
As for the leaves in the photograph, they seem to have fungal problems (not viral) and on the detached leaf there is a trace of leafminer presence. To increase the resistance of trees to high temperatures, re-inoculate mycorrhiza from well adapted trees.
Collect some soil from the surface and the best time to do this is in the fall. Place it in a bucket of water and mineral water mixture (with CO2 bubbles). Filter the contents and the liquid is then dynamized at 3-4 JT potency. Then hydrate the soil around the trunk with an irrigation and apply bionosode on the soil around the trunk. Arbuscular vascular fungi and ectomycorrhizal fungi significantly enhance the resilience of trees to adverse biotic and abiotic conditions.