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The Plant Doctor  – Dr. Radko Tichavsky – June 2024

The Plant Doctor, Dr. Radko Tichavsky, answers readers’ questions each month. Here he discusses slugs eating helix tosta, Citrus Greening in Florida, a tree attacked by Birch Tree Borer and much more.

Editor’s note: “JT potency” (Jenichen /Tichavsky) is a centesimal dilution followed by 500 succussions or five hundred continuous turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 turns to the left (if handling larger volumes). The JT potency frequently has a better reaction in plants and it is very important in preparation of live bionosodes.


Hello Dr. Tichavsky,

We live in the UK, in East Kent also known as the garden of England.

Our garden faces SE, and part of it is paved with Indian fossil sandstone.

It becomes covered in lichen in the autumn/winter, so by early spring it is ugly and very slippery, so it’s dangerous to walk on it. It is really difficult to clean; we use a steel broom but it is really hard work. We avoid chemical products, but last year resorted to using hot water with a tiny amount of bleach.  Is there anything homeopathic that we can use to curb this perennial problem?

Thank you

Grace

Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Grace,

It would be helpful to have a photo of the lichen for identification, as without knowing the name, my response will necessarily be generic. Lichens are a symbiosis of fungi and algae. Fungi base their metabolism on acids and prefer an acidic pH.

Applying sodium bicarbonate at 3 JT potency in spray form can modify the pH and inhibit their growth. On the other hand, lichen acids consist of C, H, and O atoms arranged in various aromatic rings and complex structures. Several substances can inhibit this lichen metabolism, for example, Carvacrol, Thymol, Alliin, and Allicin.

Prepare a mixture using essential oil of garlic, essential oil of Thymus vulgaris, and essential oil of Origanum vulgare, dynamize it to 3 JT, and apply it as a spray during humid periods.


Dear Radko,

I have used helix tosta in my garden one time, a week ago, and several days later when I planted salad seedlings, they were all eaten by slugs.  I made a remedy from a dead snail. I put 1/9 (1 part of burned and pulverised snail to 9 parts of water).  I was using purified water and succussing each dilution for 3 minutes.

The remedy is working to stop the slugs. Should I use a higher or stronger potency or another remedy?

Thank you!

Victoria

Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Victoria,

Snails, like all living organisms, learn based on biochemical signals and depending on food pressure (hunger). Both the bionosodes of burnt animals and those prepared from dead animals serve as a medium-strength warning, but once the animals get accustomed to the biochemical signal and realize there is no danger of death, they will feed as usual despite the applications.

In this case, you can use Euphorbia sp. at 3 JT potency, adding a pinch of salt to the homeopathic preparation and applying it in your garden. Tanacetum vulgare and essential oil of Mentha spp. at 3 JT potency also work. The remedy should be applied not only where the snails usually feed but also on the soil where they lay their eggs and sometimes burrow to survive periods of drought or other adverse conditions.


Dear Dr. Tichavsky,

Citrus greening, or Huanglongbing (HLB) disease, is spread throughout Florida ( U.S.) and attacks citrus fruit plants. It is spread through the Asian citrus psyllid,  HLB decreases water and nutrient uptake in affected trees and causes tree roots to die.

I bought a Kumquat tree in March 2024 whose leaves were mottled. I looked it up on the University of Florida agriculture IFAS website and it looks like Citrus Greening. I have mulched it with oak leaves, which was recommended.  I have also given it several remedies, including Arnica 200 C and Sulfur 30 C.  The fruit was pale, colored, and tasteless. Now in May, the leaves are still mottled but not as much and they are darker and the tree is loaded with buds, so there is some improvement.  I am not sure what to do next.

I also have a grapefruit tree growing 25 feet away from the Kumquat and now its leaves seem to be changing to get a tinge of yellow mottling on them. The grapefruit tree has been in the ground for about three years and the leaves have been a healthy, shiny dark green.  My latitude is 29.6 and longitude 82.3.  Gainesville, Florida, where I live in zone 9 USDA planting zones -US Department of Agriculture; subtropical; temp in May 80s-90sF humidity 70-80% and in summer months temps 90s-100sF. Rains used to be daily or less often- 60 inches /year.  Winter temps down to 20-25F usually 50-60s. But last winter we only had 2 freezes at 31 degrees; we have droughts-j ust had one in April with no rain for maybe a month.  Soil is sandy and nutrients and water disappear quickly-dry 2-3 days after a hard rain.

Thank you

Cindy Campbell

 Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Cindy,

I worked with HLB years ago, and we even visited the devastated crops in Florida and Brazil, and of course in Mexico. So far, there is no definitive cure for the condition as Candidatus liberibacter is eventually associated with mycoplasmas, together causing a systemic reaction that restricts the passage of nutrients between the roots and the canopy of citrus trees.

The first step is to prevent reinfection of the trees by psyllids (vectors of the disease), the second is to ensure good hydration of the trees (due to the sandy nature of your soil), and the third is to nourish the infected trees both foliar and root (as if they were two separate organisms).

Regarding your applications, Arnica and Sulphur may help but definitely will not eliminate the condition. HLB is characterized by alternating periods of improvement followed by worsening. The yellowing caused by HLB first appears at the top of the citrus canopy and then shows the characteristic asymmetric mottling on the leaves.

For controlling psyllids, use lichen preparations, for example, Xanthoria parietina, which helps suppress not only psyllids but also acts as a bactericide and fungicide, and additionally serves as a UV-A and UV-B sunscreen, increasing plant comfort and protection. Prepare a mother tincture of this yellow lichen in alcohol (you will need very little) and dynamize it to 3 JT, applying it once every two weeks with Opuntia ficus-indica mucilage as a co-adjuvant (adhesive).

Establish a green cover consisting of a combination of grasses and legumes such as: Trifolium repens, Vigna unguiculata, Medicago sativa, Chrysopogon zizanioides, Secale cereale, Paspalum notatum, tolerant to sandy and poor soils, well adapted to Florida conditions, and Arachis pintoi, a creeping legume that fixes nitrogen and provides good cover.

Once the cover reaches a height of two palms, cut it and leave it in place to form a dry mulch and increase the organic matter in the soil. On the leaves, apply sprays of humic and fulvic acids at 4 JT potency. To improve water retention in the soil, apply alginates from macroalgae at 4 JT potency.

In the soil, apply Salix babylonica 4 JT with vitamin C and B complex as a co-adjuvant.  As a constitutional remedy in the treatment of HLB, use Swinglea glutinosa (from hydroalcoholic TM of the tree bark) at 3 JT potency, applied foliar and root.


 Dear Dr. Tichavsky,

I have a 40-year-old Birch tree which is succumbing to Birch Tree Borer. Can you please recommend a remedy to eliminate this?  We would hate to have to cut down this once very beautiful tree. The borer is slowly killing the top branches of the tree.

Thank you

Maria Samson  – Calgary, Alberta, Canada

 Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

 Dear Maria,

In the case of Agrilus anxius (“Bronze birch borer”), early detection of the pest and evaluation of the extent of the damage are crucial. When more than 50% of the tree is affected, there is little that can be done, but if the infestation is recent and with minimal damage, it can be treated homeopathically.

Birch trees generally need 25 to 50 mm (1-2 inches) of water per week during the growing season (spring and summer) to stay healthy. Considering Calgary, Alberta’s average annual precipitation is 419 mm (16.5 inches), which averages to about 8.06 mm (0.317 inches) per week. This is clearly insufficient.

Depending on the Canadian species of Betula, some are more susceptible to drought and the Bronze Birch Borer. For example, Betula papyrifera, Betula alleghaniensis, and Betula papyrifera var. commutata are especially vulnerable to both drought and attacks by the Bronze Birch Borer (Agrilus anxius). These species tend to suffer from water stress during dry periods and are prone to infestations that can cause significant damage to the tree’s phloem and xylem.

In contrast, Betula occidentalis, Betula nana, and Betula glandulosa are less susceptible to these factors, making them more suitable for areas where drought conditions are frequent and the risk of pests is high. This means that your tree needs sufficient water (depending on the species) to maintain good condition and the ability to defend itself.

Find Cladophora glomerata (a common freshwater alga in your area), collect it and cook it for 30-60 minutes, let it cool, strain through a fine sieve, dynamize to 3 JT, and apply to the soil in the irrigation (700-1400 liters) during summer and spring.

Collect three common lichens in your area: Xanthoria parietina, Usnea barbata, Evernia prunastri, and Cladonia rangiferina, make a tincture of them in 30% alcohol. After one week, the tincture will be ready to be dynamized in water to 3 JT potency, and add a bit of peppermint essential oil as a co-adjuvant. You should apply this mixture once every two weeks during this summer and subsequently during the spring on the trunk and affected branches.


Hello Doctor Tichavsky,

 I live in southwest Québec, Canada, in the Ottawa Valley. The weather here is humid. It is now late Spring. Our plum tree has a fungus. I believe it is Apinosoa morbosa, also known as Dibotryon morbosum (see picture attached). We have cut many branches but the infection does not go away and has contaminated other nearby plants.  Any advice?

Thank you for your time and commitment!

With gratitude,

Joanne🌿     

 Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Joanne,

The fungus Apiospora morbosa infects Prunus trees through wounds or natural pores in the bark during the spring, especially when the weather is humid. The infection occurs through wounds or natural pores in the bark during the spring, particularly when conditions are moist.

You should prune affected branches 15 cm (about 6 inches) below the visible galls during winter to early spring when the fungus is less active and sanitize the cuts with a paste made from fat, beeswax, turpentine, and pine resin.

For preventive management, you can apply Allium sativum, Artemisia absinthium, Tropaeolum majus, Equisetum arvense, and Pinus sp. resin prepared from alcoholic mother tincture and dynamized to 4 JT. Use a bit of neem oil (Azadirachta indica) as a co-adjuvant. Spray this mixture foliar on the affected trees approximately every two weeks.


 Dear Radko,

A while ago I read a fascinating article about olive trees grown along the Dalmation coast. The article stated the symbiotic relationship between almond, olive and cherry trees. Apparently when planted together the almond increases the yield of the olive tree and the cherry helps protect against the effects of drought.

I was wondering if you knew anything about this fascinating interaction of the species.

Thank you

James

Dr. Radko Tichavsky:

Dear James,

Olea europaea and Prunus cerasus share 25 metabolites, and with Prunus dulcis they share 24 metabolites, demonstrating remarkable collaboration. The root system of Prunus spp. is much deeper (with a strong taproot) compared to the olive tree (Olea europaea), which forms a relatively shallow bulb with thin, small roots.

The root characteristics of Prunus spp. provide greater stability to the olive tree, as the latter is prone to succumbing to strong winds. Due to their root characteristics, Prunus spp. are especially useful in dry climates or in soils with deep water tables. The three tree species collaborate extensively with mycorrhizae, complementing each other by connecting through these fungi. They can even form direct root connections, exchanging nutrients and metabolic signals.

These three species symbiotize well because they occupy different niches in the soil; the ability of Prunus spp. to access deeper water tables helps the olive tree survive drought periods. While the olive tree is generally wind-pollinated and Prunus attracts insect pollinators, the olive tree can benefit from the presence of Prunus pollinators.

Plant Type of mycorrhiza Associated mycorrhizal fungi genera
Prunus cerasus Arbuscular mycorrhizas (AM) Glomus, Claroideoglomus, Rhizophagus, Funneliformis, Septoglomus, Gigaspora
Ectomycorrhizas (EM) Tuber, Cenococcum, Paxillus, Scleroderma, Hebeloma
Ectendomycorrhizas Pezizella, Wilcoxina
Prunus dulcis Arbuscular mycorrhizas (AM) Glomus, Claroideoglomus, Rhizophagus, Funneliformis, Acaulospora, Septoglomus, Gigaspora, Scutellospora
Ectomycorrhizas (EM) Tuber, Cenococcum, Hebeloma
Ectendomycorrhizas Pezizella, Wilcoxina
Olea europaea Arbuscular mycorrhizas (AM) Glomus, Rhizophagus, Funneliformis, Acaulospora, Septoglomus, Scutellospora, Gigaspora
Ectomycorrhizas (EM) Tuber, Cenococcum, Hebeloma, Scleroderma
Ectendomycorrhizas Pezizella, Wilcoxina

In the following table, we can see the differentiated metabolic capacities that allow these three species to mutually benefit. For example, Prunus dulcis has 10 insect repellents in its metabolic arsenal, while Olea europaea has only four. However, regarding bactericides, Olea is the king of antibacterial metabolites, and Prunus cerasus produces more insecticides than the other two species. The metabolic similarity enables communication among the three trees, while their complementarity enhances their metabolic mutualism.

Biological Activity Prunus cerasus (Number of Metabolites) Prunus dulcis (Number of Metabolites) Olea europaea (Number of Metabolites)
Fungicide 7 11 15
Bactericide 8 15 23
Insecticide 5 3 1
Nematicide 2 6 3
Herbicide 3 3 2
Allelopathic 2 2 4
Insect Repellent 3 10 4
Calcium Antagonist 1 4 4
Antihyperlipidemic 2 4 1
Immunomodulator 2 8 5
Antifeedant 1 4 5
Antiflu 1 3 5
Antigastritic 2 3 1
Antigonadotropic 1 1 3
Antioxidant 11 26 30
Antifungal 5 4 13
Antimutagenic 9 11 16
Insecticide 5 3 1
Antibrowser 1 2 2
Antinociceptive 2 3 5
Antidiabetic 3 11 7
Hypocholesterolemic 2 2 10
Hypoglycemic 3 11 3
Lipoxygenase Inhibitor 2 4 15
Allelopathic 2 2 4
Antiinsect 1 10 4
Antiplaque 2 6 4
Chemopreventive 4 3 8
Growth Regulator 2 1 1
Antimicrobial 7 12 18
Antiflu 1 3 5
Antifertility 1 3 3
Insect Repellent 3 10 4
Antifungal 5 11 15
Insect Repellent 3 10 4
Antibacterial 8 15 23
Insecticide 5 3 1
Anthelmintic 1 1 2
Fungistatic 1 1 1
Nematicide 2 6 3
Insect Repellent 1 10 4
Bacteriostatic 1 1 1
Allelopathic 2 2 4
Antispasmodic 2 15 12

We are only beginning to discover the plasticity of nature and its ability to form mutualisms and synergies, a dynamic very different from the Darwinian view of nature as a battlefield for the survival of the fittest. We Humans could perhaps learn something from nature.


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Start Date: May 6th 2024

What You Will Learn:

  • Foundations of Agricultural HoloHomeopathy: Discover how this practice improves soil health and crop productivity and resilience to climatic changes.
  • Natural Pest Control: Learn to manage pests and diseases using homeopathic preparations, protecting biodiversity and avoiding harmful chemicals.
  • Soil Fertility and Biodiversity: Enhance soil structure and promote a richly biodiverse environment with sustainable techniques.
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Diploma Benefits

  • Certification: Obtain a certificate validating your knowledge and skills in Agricultural HoloHomeopathy.
  • Taught by Dr. Radko Tichavsky, the diploma includes direct access to live sessions and exclusive materials.
  • Practice Community: Join a network of professionals and enthusiasts with similar interests to exchange knowledge and experiences.
  • Positive Environmental Impact: Contribute to sustainability and environmental health by applying what you’ve learned in your own projects or work environment.

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This diploma is ideal for those committed to sustainable agriculture and looking to explore and apply innovative Agricultural HoloHomeopathy techniques to enhance the effectiveness, sustainability, and profitability of their farming practices.

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Secure your spot in this unique program and take a step forward towards more sustainable and productive agriculture. Visit https://ecomenius.com/ for more information and to enroll.  OR:  write to [email protected]

Don’t miss the chance to be part of the revolution in sustainable agriculture with the Online Diploma in Agricultural HoloHomeopathy!

BOOKS ON HOLOHOMEOPATHY:

Many readers asked about Dr. Radko Tichavsky’s books.  Below is a photo of them. They are available in Spanish, Italian and Portuguese. For ordering or information:  [email protected]

 

About the author

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky was born in the Czech republic. He has lived in Mexico for more than 25 years and is one of the most important agrohomeopaths in Latin America. He is the author of the book "Manual de Agrohomeopatia", a homeopathy book on plants. Radko teaches agrohomeopathy in several countries and regularly publishes articles in special journals and internet portals. He works as a researcher and teacher at the university and has already taught agrohomeopathy to many students. He is the director of the Comenius Institute (comenius.edu.mx). More details can be found in the following interview: http://hpathy.com/homeopathic-interviews/radko-tichavsky/

3 Comments

  • good morning , sorry for the easy question, I follow and read Hpathy from many years but I don’t know where can I send my question for Dott. Radko, I knew him in a little course about these themes in Italy some years ago….if there is a mailing list or can I write here . thanks for the answer….

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