Agro Homeopathy

The Plant Doctor – May 2021


The Plant Doctor, Radko Tichavsky, answers questions this month on fire blight, codling moth and plum curculio on an apple farm, Strawberry plants with leaf spots, aphids in almond trees and much more!

Editor’s note:  This month’s column featured the collaboration of Radko Tichavsky’s students of holohomeopathy, Denise Campoy Mireles (BMC Biol., Mexico) and Tatyana Nikolaeva-Drossos (MPh, Chicago US). Send your garden and crop questions to [email protected]

Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish), Organon de la Holohomeopatía and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.

He is now offering a one-semester virtual course in Holohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here:

NEW BOOK: Organon de la Holohomeopatía

Six years in the making, it is the latest book by Radko Tichavsky, researcher on the application of homeopathy in agriculture. This Spanish language book covers homeopathic interventions in agriculture from the holistic view, allowing greater certainty in repertorizations. It addresses a novel concept of metabolic similarity, not only among plants, but also among different species of the animal and plant kingdom. It studies the formation and dynamics of attractors, areas of greater vitality within the holons and coexistence units of different living organisms Holohomeopathy is a fascinating contribution to the application of homeopathy to plants.  It allows one to discover a universe of surprising relations in vital dynamism. It puts into the hands of the agricultural producer, a valuable tool for the successful handling of pests and diseases in crops of any size.  For ordering or information: [email protected]

Greetings Mr. Tichavsky,
We are taking over an organic apple farm in the mountains in Virginia (U.S.) this summer. I am excited to research homeopathy to increase the health of the trees and to reduce costs and reliance on spraying. Currently the farm’s largest pests/disease are fire blight (cut out), codling moth, plum curculio, and increasingly stink bug pressure (all relying on spraying). Where should we start to add homeopathy to our arsenal of tools to address these issues for next season?

We are in hardiness zone 5a. Summer High: the July high average is around 78 degrees. Winter Low: the January low average is 17. Rain: averages 47 inches of rain a year Snow: averages 67 inches of snow a year

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Izzy,
The biodiversity of which the Holon is composed, has a great impact on the growth, productivity and health of plants. It comes from bacteria, fungi and viruses found in the rhizosphere and even within plant tissues forming a symbiotic relationship, which can be beneficial or pathogenic, as well as the presence of mammals, insects, arachnids, ants, birds, etc., since there is a communication and a connection with each organism and element present in it, bioindicating the state of vitality of the system, in this case of the apple crop.

Fire blight (Erwinia amylovora) is a gram negative bacterium, i.e. its membrane is composed of a lipid bilayer that makes it more resistant. This bacterium belongs to the class of gammaproteobacteria and its antagonist are the bacteria belonging to the Phylum Firmicutes as Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus thuringiensis and Bacillus subtilis which are endophytes of Zea mays (root), Ginkgo biloba (leaves, pollen), Zingiber officinale, Vitis vinifera (leaves, fruit, seed), Apium graveolens (seed, leaves, stem, shoots, root), Solanum tuberosum (shoots, plant, stem, root), which help in the control of the bacteria, stem, root, which help to suppress the growth of Erwinia amylovora and which also have metabolic similarity with Malus domestica and contribute to the formation of bactericidal, insecticidal, larvicidal, fungicidal, etc. metabolites.

Cook a medium potato, let it cool down, remove the peel. Then disinfect the surface of the leaf or roots of the selected plant with 70% alcohol (e.g. clean the root with a brush and disinfect the Zea mays root with alcohol) with a little tap water.

Liquefy in a blender the potato with roots of any of the plants mentioned above and leave it at room temperature for a day. Then dilute this liquid in a ratio of 1:100 and make 500 vigorous succussions (if the volume is large then 500 turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 to the left) to get 4 JT potency and spray on the crops.

To control Cydia pomonella, Conotrachelus nenuphar and Halyomorpha halys, you can use the species Daucus carota (root, seeds), which contains 14 common insecticidal metabolites and 6 larvicidal metabolites, among which alpha-pinene is an element present in Streptomyces spp.

This bacterium has an insecticidal function and is also found in Ginkgo biloba, Vitis vinifera and Solanum tuberosum.

Apium graveolens (seeds, leaves, shoots), has 19 common insecticidal metabolites and 6 larvicidal metabolites with Malus domestica.

The metabolites that have an insecticidal function are Caffeic-acid, Rutin, Chlorogenic-acid, Eugenol, Thymol and Cinnamaldehyde, also present in the bacteria Streptomyces spp. (Eugenol) and Paenibacillus polymyxa (Thymol), which have antifungal, insecticidal and herbicidal properties, as well as Lactobacillus plantarum (Cinnamaldehyde) which has a biofertilizing function.

For this case you can elaborate a live bionosode of Daucus carota from the root and/or seeds or from the vegetal species already mentioned, to reproduce the bacteria with insecticidal activity and apply it in your crop at 3JT.

Another option is to make an oleate from Apium graveolens seeds. Grind the seeds and place them in organic grape seed oil, in the absence of sunlight and let them stand for a week, or get on the internet essential oil of Apium seed.

You can also make a mother tincture of these plant species to extract the metabolites that in turn attract a set of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the rhizosphere of the crop.

Place 1/3 of the plant (specifically the parts mentioned above) in 30% alcohol in a glass jar with a lid in the absence of light, and let it stand for a week.

Take a portion of this tincture or oil, dilute it 1:100 in non-chlorinated water and make 500 succussions. Repeating this operation two more times you will obtain the 3JT potency and apply it as a spray on the plants.

Another option in the control of Cydia pomonella, Conotrachelus nenuphar and Halyomorpha halys is through their natural enemies.

Natural enemy Type Life stages Class
Bacillus creus Pathogen Larvae Bacteria
Bacillus thuriniensis Pathogen Larvae Bacteria
Beauveria bassiana Pathogen Larvae/Pupae Fungi
Carabidae Parasite Eggs/Larvae/Pupae Insecta
Clivinia impressifrons Predator Larvae Insecta
Elodia morio Parasite Larvae Insecta
Eurytoma Parasite Pupae Insecta
Metarhizium anisopliae Pathogen Fungi
Parus major Predator Birds
Parus caeruleus Predator Birds
Trichogramma pretiosum Parasite Eggs Insecta

Birds are an important part of the holon for pest control. Be sure to leave some fresh water in containers placed on the trees.

Natural enemies of Conotrachelus nenuphar

Natural enemy Type Life stages Class
Anaphes conotracheli Parasite Eggs Insecta
Solenopsis invicta Predator Larvae Insecta
Chrysopa Predator Larvae Insecta
Bacillus thuringiensis Pathogen Adults Bacteria
Bauveria bassiana Pathogen Larvae Entomopathogenic fungus
Metarhizium anisopliae Pathogen All stages Fungi
Bufo americanus Predator Adults Amphibia

From Metarhizium anisopliae a live bionosode can be elaborated from the first 5 cm of soil of Quercus sp. of 20 to 30 years of age, adding carbonated water in addition to what is mentioned in the elaboration of live bionosode explained above, and with the amphibians observe them and have them present in the crop.

Natural enemies of  Halyomorpha halys

Natural enemy Type Life stages Class
Anastatus Parasite Eggs Insecta
Bogosia Parasite Adults Insecta
Isyndus obscurus Predator All stages Insecta
Misumenops tricuspidatus Predator All stages Arachnida
Ophiocordyceps nutans Pathogen All stages Entomopathogenic fungus
Trissolcus flavipes Parasite All stages Insecta
Trissolcus itoi Parasite All stages Insecta

In the case of insects, you can make a mother tincture of any of the insects mentioned above and make the remedy at 3JT potency and apply it to the culture.

In the case of bacteria, it is important to make live bionosodes as mentioned above and apply them to the cultures as a spray at room temperature.

Then dilute this liquid in a ratio of 1:100 and make 500 vigorous succussions (if the volume is large then 500 turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 to the left) to get 4 JT potency and spray on the crops.

Dear Mr. Tichavsky,
My location is Bangalore, India and I’ve got a small organic vegetable terrace garden.

1. My Cluster Bean plants look very weak and unhealthy. The older leaves are brittle and the vines turn purplish dark and fall off. I thought this may be due to Phosphorus deficiency and applied bone meal. Later I sprayed Calc.Phos 30CH and Silicea 30CH after 1 week. But I am not finding any noticeable improvement.  I don’t know if it is due to any deficiency or disease. What is the solutio?

2. I have got a few Strawberry plants with leaf spots and Anthracnose rot. I lost some plants due to this. How might I control this fungus?  Attached are the images of affected Cluster Beans and Strawberry plants.


Strawberry Plants
Thank you,

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Murali,
There is a mistaken idea that applying Phosphorus (or some other macronutrient) homeopathically to plants can solve their nutritional deficiency.

It is as simple as this: the quantities of phosphorus that plants require are much larger than those that could be provided by a homeopathic dose, even at low potency. Homeopathy does not substitute for nutrition. If it were so, then humans would also stop eating and just feed on homeopathy, which is certainly not possible. Do I make myself clear?

As for the micro elements, the situation is different. Very small quantities of trace elements are required for the plants to react.  For example, the application of Borax 6 CH on your strawberry plants can have a beneficial and visible effect.

Strawberries in their natural environment (temperate forests) naturally coexist with pines (Pinus sp.) which provide strawberries with polyterpenoids for their defense against fungi such as Botrytis sp. for example.

Strawberries in return provide Pines with Boron, an element that naturally bioaccumulates and is required by Pines. When the strawberry is separated from the pines, which happens in crops, then the strawberries begin to suffer from a series of uncontrollable fungal disorders and diseases.

To improve the performance of your strawberries, add pine leaves around the plants which will acidify the soil and provide favorable conditions for strawberries.

Applying the homeopathic preparation of resin of Pinus sp. at 3 CH potency will help you effectively control fungal problems in strawberries.

Concerning bean plants, you can apply live bionosode of Aloe vera 3 JT. You extract some Aloe vera gel, put it in a blender with some water and dynamize it in water (not chlorinated) making 500 successions per 1:100 dilution.

You spray the remedy on the leaves and soil of the plants. The Aloe vera endophytic bacteria that you disperse in this way in your crops will take care of supplying bioavailable macronutrients to your bean plants.

Dear Mr.Tichavsky,
We have many acres of pasture that my husband would like to add nutrients to increase the health and microorganisms.  Would there be some remedies we could spray on? I was wondering about Calc carb, Mag phos and Silica but I am an amateur at this 😁

We are in Simla, Colorado, around 5800 ft high.  Dry generally and often have a wet spring snow. We have been in a drought the last few years. rolling hills but not too many trees.  Only in the creek bottom.

No particular problems on the land.  This property has about 640 acres that we graze cattle and sheep.  We also have chickens we move around for nitrogen deposits.
Thank you,
Lisa Wheeler
Healthy Land, Healthy Animals, Healthy Families

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Lisa,
First, I would like to make some comments on the remedies you mentioned. Calcarea carbonica is effectively used to increase the robustness of the root system of some plants and to increase the hardness of their epidermis, thus limiting the action of some stinging and sucking insects.

Magnesia phosphorica is generally used to increase and improve the photosynthesis of plants. Silica for its part strengthens the capacity of some plants, not all. It is also useful to repel pathogenic fungi and to have a better climatic resilience.

However, none of these applications will have a dramatic and long lasting effect on your pastures due to the prolonged drought conditions you are experiencing.

I took the liberty of choosing an area near Simla to conduct a satellite analysis of plant moisture content over the last five years to date (May 8, 2021).

Only values above 0.4 are conducive to good plant growth. This only confirms your comment about the prolonged drought conditions in your area that is cumulative.

To give a solution to your crops you should think mainly of live bionosodes of drought resistant bacteria in collaboration with VAM (Vascular arbuscular mycorhiza) fungi.

Generally, the application of purchased and isolated microorganisms has little benefit in these situations because in adverse conditions they have a short life span (they are not resistant) and after a few days they form spores, go dormant or become encysted depending on the type of organism, or simply die.

The “indigenous” microorganisms that are found naturally in your area, for example near streams or in other attractors (places of high vitality) have an enormous resilience and specific beneficial functionality.

They need to be identified, extracted, replicated and dispersed in homeopathic applications to restore holon resilience as a first step.

Water retention does not only happen in the soil as a substrate. I am referring to the mineral part and the humus and organic matter, but it also accumulates in the body of millions of microorganisms present in the soil and especially in the biofilms, which are formations based on exopolysaccharids elaborated by some bacteria and which establish biodiverse and resilient communities of microorganisms on the basis of an agreement between them.

It’s a sort of consensus called “quorum sensing”, formed in the soil and on other living or non-living surfaces (roots, stones, leaves, etc.).

Once the “indigenous” resilient microorganisms are established in biofilms, there will also be created the conditions for the introduction of endophytic microorganisms into the plants, and these will directly benefit not only the growth (producing growing phyto-hormons, fixing N and disponibilizing K and P) of the plants but will also help to better nourish your animals and in consequence of course, the humans as well.

The homeopathic remedies selected with the anthropocentric approach generally (extrapolated from a human repertory) have little effect and have erratic and ephemeral (short-lived) response in plants.

In these cases the holohomeopathic intervention based on the concrete holon responses is very effective and above all will have a long-lasting effect. Discarding the mechanical extrapolation of remedies from human repertoires may require a little more work, but it will be rewarded with abundant results.

I apologize for not extending more specifically my answer that would require a little more study of what the plants require and how you perform the management of animals, analyze more specifically to the type of soil, its granulometry and microorganism community that compose it, but even so it can give you basic ideas about what can be done with a holohomeopathic intervention. I will be in touch with you.

Hi Dr. Tichavsky,
I live in Peoria, Illinois, USA, 61611 where the Eastern Mole (Scalopus aquaticus) and Voles (Microtus family) wreak havoc in my yard, leaving hills of dirt, raised tunnels, and runways and holes in the ground.  I understand moles eat grubs while voles eat many plants, including grasses.  Our yard is grass with many landscaping plants, surrounded by fertile farm fields.  I have done a couple of experiments on this issue using homeopathy, but none with lasting results.

Is there a way to make the yard less inviting to these pests?
Thank you
Daphne Brenner Fay

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Daphne,
I understand your despair, although moles and other field rodents are adorable as all living things and have an important ecological function, their overpopulation can cause problems in crops.

Your property is surrounded by crops where the soil is constantly disturbed and where they cannot thrive, but the quietness of your property represents for them a kind of sanctuary.

You can repel them by means of a homeopathic preparation based on fox urine (you can get it on the internet) and prepare it in water at 3 JT potency and apply it all over your area by spraying.

The rodents present in your holon have really bad eyesight but a very well developed sense of smell, which guides them mainly where to settle and where not to settle in relation to their natural predators.

The application of homeopathic preparation of fox urine is a very effective remedy and does not imply any harm to them. It is a simple invitation for them to settle down in another place, fulfilling their ecological function as it should be.

You can also plant some plants known as mole repellents: Fritillaria imperialis, Narcissus sp. Rubus sp. (blackberries) or Incarvillea.

Dear Radko,
About six month’s ago I asked for your help with the almond trees on my plot. I live in the mediterranean part of Spain and the almond trees had dried up and had brown leaves with infestation of aphids. You had suggested to apply Cuprum C 6 twice over the time of a year, and also Sulphur C 6.

After one round of both, one of the almond trees is doing tremendously well. It has healthy leaves, lots of flowers and is building lots of almonds. The other one, however, also had healthy leaves at first and an enormous amount of flowers, and now is producing hardly any almonds. Also, some leaves have developed bright red malformed patches, and others are shriveling and turning yellow.

My question is whether Cuprum still fits this symptom picture or do you recommend something else? In relation to the healthy tree, should I apply the second doses of Cuprum and Sulphur?   I have attached a photo.

Thank you

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Jost,
I am very pleased with the good holohomeopathic progress in your orchard. The picture you sent shows typical leaf curl fungus damage.

It is caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans. Applications of Cuprum metallicum or Sulphur may lessen the severity of the infection but will not eliminate it completely.

One option is to purchase some Pseudomonas protegens and dynamize it in water at 3 JT potency, applying this highly antagonistic bacterium against the fungus to the soil and leaves of your trees.

Or, even easier and less expensive and with the same effect is to apply Bacillus pumilus a bacterium of the phylum Firmicutes present in some marine macroalgae, for example in Sargassum fusiforme, Fucus vesiculosus or Ecklonia cava.

You can also obtain it in the stems of Tradescantia spathacea, and you will find it in the gel of an Aloe vera leaf or in sap of Helianthus annuus.

You can prepare live bionosode from any of the above- mentioned plants or algae, dynamize them to 3 JT potency and apply twice a week in the evenings.

The good news is that Bacillus pumilus also collaborates very well with the beneficial Glomus intraradices, in fact it colonizes this mycorrhizal arbuscular fungus and together they will protect your almond trees not only against Taphrina deformans but also against the periods of extreme drought that occur in Spain.

Dear Mr.Tichavsky,
I volunteer in a country park in Wales and we have a problem with Himalayan Balsam and also Japanese Knotweed which are obviously non-native to the UK but also highly invasive. Current treatment protocols for treating the Japanese Knotweed involves the use of a toxic herbicides which I refuse to get involved in. Himalayan Balsam is either chopped down or pulled up by the roots depending on the time of year and is highly labour intensive.  I wondered if there were any other methods of control that could be useful?
Thank you
Stephen Sparrow  – Registered Homeopath​

Dear Steven,
You asked one of those questions that require detailed study of the issue. We cannot treat one symptom without considering the whole holon, and especially the dynamics in which the symptom arises, or it will be like treating eczema with topical medications.

Fallopia japonica (FJ) or Polygonum cuspidatum was introduced in the 1840s, spread very slowly. Increased intensity of occurrence was observed only in recent decades (see picture). The previous introduction in 1820s did not establish at all.

Its “alien range” is disturbed areas with special affinity to riparian habitats (adjacent to streams) that play an important role in aquatic nutrient cycling.

In the UK around 75% of surface freshwater is classified as eutrophic, meaning overloaded with “nutrients” from urban runoff, agricultural inputs; with low oxygen levels, high N and P (effluents from fertilizer industry).

It can be compounded by algal blooms, and it diminishes biodiversity. FJ creates shading that can reduce stream trophic state; it also sequestrates huge biomass (3-6 times of biomass of uninvaded habitats) and slows nutrient cycling (very slow decomposition: 4 years to get to 5%). It also hyperaccumulates P and K, in essence, alleviating the ecosystem from the overload of contaminants.

The situation with FJ is more complex than treating plants on someone’s backyard, and responsibilty is higher. An integral approach is needed involving analysis of bioindicators of the holon, spatiotemporal analysis of spread, use of manual mapping and remote sensing with fractal analysis, risk assessment/priority setting.

Then appropriate holohomeopathic strategy can be worked out, taking into consideration the suitable direction of intervention (based on decubits/attractors and their dynamics).

That said, few simple holohomeopathic treatments can be suggested. Aphalara itadori co-evolved psyllid was tried in UK, but with little effect (FJ is has low N content, and produces antifeedants). It is always a better idea to look for solutions in your holon.

Pathogenic fungi to consider: Puccinia polygoni-amphibii (co-evolved rust), Mycosphaerella polygoni-cuspidati (leaf spot) – both spores and mycelium are infective.

Aecidium polygoni-cuspidati (rust) has two hosts, the second being Phragmites communis, native in the same habitats – look for signs of infection on both.

You can also survey closely related plant species for source of fungal pathogens: Persicaria punctata, P. virginiana, P. hydropiper, P. bicornis, P. amphibii; Polygonum convolvulus, P. scandens, P.virginianum; Geranium maculatum.

The living bionosode is prepared from diseased tissues/spores with 5% molasses and a little carbonated water, allowed to ferment for few days and then used at 3-4JT with the slime of Opuntia ficus-indica as a coadjuvant.

FJ has many fungal endophytes, some of them (Alternaria alternata, Phoma) protect it from pathogenic fungi; some are “neutral” (Colletotrichum, Pestaloptiopsis), and others (Phomopsis, Phyllosticta) facilitate the infection with pathogens.  

TM made from the local allelopathic plants and applied at 5-6CH can be used to reduce the vigour of FJ (see below – for Impatiens glandulifera). According to studies in Germany, establishment and spreading of FJ is hindered by reed grass (Phalaris arundinacea), common reed (Phragmites communis), butterbur species (Petasites spp.), and alder (Alnus glutinosa) –can also be used in 6CH or planted around the spreading standg of FJ.

Fallopia japonica is the same plant from which Resveratrol is extracted commercially in China. FJ has also metabolites with antiviral and hepato-protective properties (against HepB virus and murine leukemia), broad antimicrobial (P.aeruginosa, E.coli, B. subtilis, S. aureus, Mycobacterium phlei), antifungal (against ringworm in pet animals), antiinflammatory, gastroprotectant, antidepressant, estrogenic, and citotoxic (potential for cancer treatment) – the whole pharmacy in one.

Extract from FJ is used to inhibit fungal pathogens of Capsicum (Plasmopara viticola), and Lycopersicon esculentum (Phytophtora infestans) just some potential uses of the invasive plant.    

Impatiens glandulifera (IG), an annual native of the              Himalayas was introduced to Europe several times from 1830s; subsequent spread was also slow until 1920s (the start of massive land use changes and eutrophication).

As a ruderal plant, IG favors damp, nutrient-rich soils, frequently disturbed – river banks and riparian zone. The name Impatiens alludes to its seed dispersal: ripe seed pods open explosively and shoot the seeds up to 7 meters away, they can be carried by water to longer distances.

Use of pesticides has some effect, but it kills other plants in the vicinity and endangers water supplies; and if IG seed dispersal is factored in, pesticides really afford very little decrease in its spread, if at all.

As with F.japonica, the “invasionof I.glandulifera took more than a century; so rather than deeming it “alien”, we should try to see what function it might currently fulfill in the holon.

The full analysis of the situation is beyond the scope of this column but we can discuss some directions of a holistic strategy, so we can expect successful holo-homeopathic intervention.

Many studies of IG show mixed results: in some European countries it is shown to inhabit the already eroded banks, rather than being the reason for erosion.

Investigations of forest invasions in the Czech Republic conclude that it has minor effect on soil and plant community composition, and does not present a substantial threat: after IG is removed, local communities restore within one growing season.

The majority of studies however point to the inhibitory effect of IG on native plants and soil fungi, both ectomycorhizal and arbuscular vascular mycorrhiza.  2-methoxy-1,4-naphtoquinone (2-MNQ) is the allelochemical implicated in its invasive potential.

IG is a great pollinator attractor, luring insects away from the native species; it is interesting to note that the same 2-MNQ is present in the extrafloral nectaries and nectar, and inhibits the common nectar yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii and fungus Aureobasidium pullulans present in most other species’ nectar.

One Holohomeopathic intervention would be to use a bacterium that can degrade 2-MNQ (to limit the invasive potential of IG, and potentially disrupt its nectar microbiome).

Pseudomonas putida can be found in Curcuma longa root, bionosode prepared with boiled potato as described in previous issues, dynamized to 3-4JT and sprayed on plants.

Another possibility is to use Urtica dioica in 6CH, prepared from TM of the whole plant: it has 9 allelochemical substances, is native, grows in the same habitat, and was tested to slow down the growth of IG.

IG has surprisingly few fungal pathogens and predators in its own native range, due to its fungal endophytes: A. alternata, Cladosporium cladosporoides, C. oxysporum, Colletotricum gloeosporioides, C.dematium, C. acutatum, Epicoccum nigrum.

Pathogenic fungi for biocontrol are: Phyllosticta impatientis (leaf spot, can be also found on Impatiens parviflora), Podosphaera balsaminae (powdery mildew) – both from Europe.

Puccinia komarovii var. glanduliferae (co-evolved rust fungus tested in 2014 in UK, specific to IG, and has only one host). Another rust from Asia P.impatiensis needs two hosts – IG and Adoxa moschatellina, native to UK.

You can try to locate it in your area and plant around IG, or prepare TM from the leaves of Adoxa moschatellina, dynamize it to 3-4CH, and spray once on a patch of emerging IG to attract the pathogenic fungus. The live bionosodes for either of the four fungi needs to be elaborated from the diseased plant tissues.

Check internet images to identify the fungi. It is best to find them in your holon: IG in UK is genetically diverse, so application of “imported” fungal strains are not effective.

Blend the diseased tissues with about 5% molasses, add some carbonated water (no flavor), cover with fabric, let ferment for 2-4 days depending on temperature.

Then proceed with dynamization to 3-4JT depending on the amount you need, and spray on the IG plants. You need to add about 1:100 slime of Opuntia ficus-indica or Aloe vera leaf gel to your preparation in order to create microfilm on the leaves to help the pathogen establish (otherwise its endophyte “bodyguards” prevent invasions). Apply after rain or in the evening, so it has at least 8 hours of cooler temperatures.

There are a few native plants with allelopathic potential (besides U.dioica) that can be employed in 6CH prepared from TM,  before the application of bionosodes in order to weaken plants’ defences: Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (12 compounds,leaves ), Sambucus nigra (8, flowers and leaves), Solidago virgaurea (4, flowers and leaves), Pteridium aquilinum (7, leaves), Juglans nigra (9, whole fruit and leaves)

I.grandulifera is a hyperaccumulator of Cadmium, which is one of the most toxic to plants and animals, cancerogenic, and teratogenic heavy metals.

Naturally occurring levels of Cd are <1 mg/kg; anthropogenic sources (sewage, smelting, fertilizers) contribute to elevated Cd levels in water and soil.

Ireland and the U.K. happen to have some of the highest levels in soil and sediments – up to 43 mg/kg (upper limit established at 20 mg/kg for soils). Traditional remediation is labor, cost, and time consuming. Phytoremediation is far superior.

The ideal hyperaccumulator needs to be fast growing, easy to harvest, resistant to pests/disease, tolerant towards toxicity, able to rapidly uptake, translocate, and bioconcentrate the toxin.

IG satisfies all of these requirements: shows high tolerance for Cd, growing up to 1.6m when exposed to 150mg/kg Cd, removing up to 29mg Cd per plant, germinates (in vitro) at unprecedented high levels of 40,000mg/kg Cd.

The uptake is very rapid, so plants can be removed before setting seed. Shallow roots make it easy to harvest them (unusual for hyperaccumulator plants).

Removal of the whole plant enables the recovery of all accumulated Cd – which is not typically possible – and the removed biomass can be used for biofuel production. This looks like the work of the holon rather than simple coincidence.

Dear Plant Doctor,

Our Junipers are infested with Mistletoe, as are many of the Junipers in northern New Mexico where I live. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t be concerned but we are in an extreme drought condition and I fear the trees will be harmed by this parasite stealing water and other nutrients needed for these trees’ survival. I have read Maute’s Homeopathy for Plants and Kaviraj’s Homeopathy for Farm and Garden and neither even mention Mistletoe. Your advice would be welcome.
Stuart H. Garber, DC, PhD, AVCA
Founder and Developer
Dr. Garber’s Natural Solutions

Dear Dr. Garber,
The Juniperus sp. have a great capacity for mutualistic relations with fungi, between VAM fungi (Vascular arbuscular mycorhyza), in this case for example Glomus fasciculatum. This fungus is fundamental in relation to the resilience of the tree to water stress.

VAM mycorhizic fungi connect with the vascular system of their roots and extend them sometimes for tens of meters interconnecting an extensive network with the root system of other Juniperus trees, but also of other plants (for example Artemisia spp.) facilitating not only water supply but also the collaboration of other endophytes such as bacteria of the phylum Firmicutes.

In Juniperus trees, hosting parasitic plants such as Phoradendron juniperum Engelm., a decrease in their collaboration with VAM fungi has been observed.

High levels of mistletoe (but also increased pressure from herbivorous animals) cause a decrease in the colonization of VAM fungi representing about 30% in male trees and about a 40% decrease in female trees and this leads to the pronounced devitalization of the trees.

The holohomeopathic intervention consists in increasing the recolonization of VAM fungi for example with live bionosode made from the roots of Artemisia sp. (containing VAM fungus Glomus fasciculatum) and live bionosode made from the sap of Opuntia ficus indica.

Artemisa itself have pronounced defense functions against the Phoradendron colonization and also change the taste of the tree to the herbivorous animals.

Cut a couple of cladodes of Opuntia ficus indica and place them in 20 liters of water for 24 hours, then the cladode remains are removed and the water with the plant sap is used to make bionosode at 3 JT potency and the soil around the trees is irrigated or sprayed.

This helps to form a protective layer of the polysaccharides contained in this live bionosode around the root system, facilitating water retention and promoting the formation of bacterial-fungal biofilms, which are the basis of the resilience of the microorganisms associated with Juniperus sp. and also of the resilience of the tree itself in conditions of intense drought.

As for the control of Phoradendron juniperum we use live bionosode of Fusarium oxysporum, a highly pathogenic fungus for this parasitic plant and with no pathogenic effect on the Juniperus sp. trees itself. In one week of daily application, the mortality rate of P. juniperum is about 99%.

A live bionosode is prepared in carbonated water from Phoradendron juniperum leaves diseased with Fusarium oxysporum at 3 JT potency.

It is very important that Fusarium oxysporum strains are extracted directly from diseased or necrotic leaves of Phoradendron juniperum, as they are specific for this species and different from Fusarium oxysporum for example extracted from tomato or other plants.

If you are interested in learning the holohomeopathic method you can consider participating in the virtual diploma of holohomeopathy. It lasts one semester and is taught in English, my English is not perfect, but I have several English speaking students. (

My students are able to learn quickly, detaching themselves from anthropocentric agrohomeopathy texts (really not stable enough to be used in professional applications), and develop productive agricultural and ecological projects of holohomeopathic intervention with great success.

Hello Mr.Tichavsky,
I have a Hood Pear Tree that has black spots on the leaves. Some leaves turn completely black and wilt also.  I’m not sure if this is Fire Blight or a fungal infection. I have removed as many infected leaves as possible and have already sprayed Carbo Veg and Rhus Tox with 2 weeks in between. Some new leaves still are affected though. Any advice what can be done? The location is San Diego, California.


Average monthly temperatures range from 57.3 °F (14.1 °C) in January to 72 °F (22 °C) in August. On average, 344 days a year are hotter than 60 °F (16 °C), but only 25 days are hotter than 80 °F (27 °C). Late summer and early autumn are typically the hottest times of the year with and average high of 78 °F (26 °C) in August and 77 °F (25 °C) in September. Temperatures occasionally reach 90 °F (32 °C) or higher.


San Diego has on average 146 sunny days and 117 partly cloudy days a year. The average annual precipitation is less than 12 inches (30 cm), resulting in a borderline arid climate. Rainfall is strongly concentrated in the cooler half of the year, particularly the months December through March, although precipitation is lower than any other part of the U.S. west coast. While the summer months are virtually rainless, subtropical moisture from the North American Monsoon usually results in increased humidity and Thunderstorms for at least a few days each summer. Rainfall is highly variable from year to year and from month to month.  SEE PHOTOS BELOW:

Thank you

Radko Tichavsky:

The condition in the photo appears to be caused by Venturia pyrina (Pear scab). The first important thing is to avoid any fertilization containing nitrogenous substances, either in the form of animal droppings or synthetic fertilizers, as excess nitrogen produces soft tissues susceptible to the disease. It is also important to avoid any form of spray-irrigation that touches the leaves.

As for the remedies you mention, Carbo vegetabilis has only a palliative effect on Venturia pyrina as it modifies the pH in the leaves making them a little more alkaline presenting adverse conditions for the fungus. But once this effect has passed, the disease reestablishes itself even more vigorously. In other words, in this case it is a palliative remedy.

As for antifungal substances in the Rhus toxicodendron plant, only two are reported: Kaempherol (20 ug/ml) and Quercetin, and both substances are naturally contained in Hood Pear (Pyrus communis).

What makes Rhus toxicodendron resistant to Venturia pyrina really is the beneficial bacterium of the phylum Firmicutes called Bacillus amyloliquefasciens that lives in the sap of Rhus toxicodendron.

So it is useless to apply Rhus toxicodendron purchased in pharmacies to try to combat Venturia pyrina, because in the process of making the mother tincture in alcohol all the endophytes are eliminated including B. amyloliquefasciens.

On the other hand, if you collect some roots of the Rhus toxicodendron plant (you must do it with caution using surgical gloves), wash them in water, then soak them for a few minutes in ethyl alcohol at 70% and wash them again in water, then liquefy them in bottled water (without chlorine) and dynamize them at potency 4 JT (in a series of dilutions of 1: 100 each time followed by 500 vigorous succussions).

Apply it foliarly on your trees and you will see a significant and lasting reduction of the disease, thanks to the strong antagonism of Bacillus amyloliquefasciens.

Once B. amyloliquefasciens is established on your trees, it releases methoxy-phenyl-oxime, a metabolite that attracts Trichoderma viride, another endophytic fungus (living within the plant sap), an antagonist of Venturia pyrina.

It also facilitates the collaboration of the roots with other mycorhizic fungi (e.g. Tuber sp. truffles) that will increase together with Trichoderma the resistance of your trees to drought.

Only in this way can we trigger the systemic response in the holon, which can be considered as a living organism, and the response of the homeopathic applications will be truly forceful and massive, facilitating the collaboration of several living organisms, conspiring for the health of the holon.

Once Bacillus amyloliuefasciens colonizes your trees you will achieve this systemic effect (systemic avalanche type of collaboration of microorganisms in the holon) described in the second paragraph of the Organon.

As Hahnemann said in the Organon, the cure will be fast, gentle and permanent.

Hello Mr. Tichavsky:
How we can help support our apple trees naturally to combat pests (especially worms, but also bees and squirrels) from having plentiful fruit each year. We do pick up fallen fruit immediately and have used a hanging sticky ball to try to detour pests, but it’s just not enough.  Also, the fruit is not plentiful, but what does grow is often taken over by the varying pests.  We live in Renville Minnesota (Zone 4).

Month High / Low(°F)   Rain

May    69° / 47°           8 days

June   78° / 58°           8 days

July82° / 62°               7 days

August79° / 59°          6 days
Thank you

Radko Tichavsky:

Dear Katie,
You actually raise several questions in one. I will try to summarize some basic tips that can help you. As for the squirrels you can get fox urine on the internet. You will require a small amount (with 20 ml you have enough), and you will prepare it at 3 JT potency. Place two drops of fox urine in 20 ml of water and make 500 vigorous succussions, then pour this liquid in 2 liters of water and make 500 vigorous succussions. With these two liters pour in 200:l of water and make 500 turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 turns to the left.

With this live bionosode of fox urine you will spray all your trees to scare away the squirrels, as they have a very sensitive sense of smell to their predator’s odor (imperceptible to humans) and this will tell them to stay away from your apples.

The most common apple tree pests in Minnesota are Rhagoletis pomonella and Cydia pomonella, both of which cause fruit maggots.

Tree performance depends on several factors, the first of which is the correct stimulation of blossom formation by one or two propolium applications at 4 JT potency.

Such a pronounced effect of flower growth stimulation in apple trees after propolium application is due to the fact that not only the flowers hormonally attract pollinators, but also the presence of pollinators (not only European bees) leaves small doses of stimulant to grow more flowers.

Then you have to make sure of correct nutrition. The fertilizers of synthetic origin or animal excrements, both produce imbalances in the trees. Then the most advisable thing is to maintain a green cover composed of grasses and native plants and clover.

This will favor the presence of rhizophilic bacteria able to produce growth hormone for your trees, fix nitrogen from the air and bioavailable phosphorus and potassium for them.

During the flowering of the trees, you should mow the green cover so that it does not produce flowers at this time and does not compete with your trees.

After that you should only cut the plants about three or four times a year and leave the cuttings in the same place where you cut them to form mulching and multiply the beneficial microorganisms that feed your trees.

On top of the mulching you can apply bionosode vivo 3 JT of Aloe vera gel two or three times a year.

As for the management of the two mentioned insects you can additionally use Metarhizium anisopliae (you can buy it on the internet and you will only need a very small amount), an enthomopathogenic fungus prepared at 3 JT potency in water adding carbonated water in the process of dynamization.

Another strategy we use to reduce oviposition of the two insects is the application of Salix babylonica 3 JH and garlic at 3 JT potency in the same application.

The addition of salicylic acid (from Salix babylonica) and jasmonic acid (from garlic) reduces insect oviposition of Rhagoletis pomonella and Cydia pomonella on apple trees.

About the author

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky was born in the Czech republic. He has lived in Mexico for more than 25 years and is one of the most important agrohomeopaths in Latin America. He is the author of the book "Manual de agrohomeopatía", a homeopathy book on plants. Radko teaches agrohomeopathy in several countries and regularly publishes articles in special journals and internet portals. He works as a researcher and teacher at the university and has already taught agrohomeopathy to many students. He is the director of the Comenius Institute ( More details can be found in the following interview:

1 Comment

  • Dear Radko,
    The crown of a strawberry plant is supposed to be above-ground. In the photo of the strawberry plant, the crown is not showing, although it may simply be obscured by a leaf in the photo. If the plant was planted too deep, won’t that stress the plant and invite disease?

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