Our plant doctors Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Pawan Singhania weigh in on your plant problems.
Radko TIchavsky Mark Moodie Pawan Singhania
Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is the former director of Instituto Comenius at Mexico, author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homepathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy. www.icomenius.edu.mx El 04/12/2014, a las 15:36, Radko Tichavsky [email protected] escribió
Mark Moodie hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.
Dear Plant Doctors,
I am an agriculture graduate from Andhra pradesh, India. At present I am working in a seed company as General Manager – Production. I impressed by seeing this Agriculture Homeopathy. I would like to gain knowledge on this and I would like to serve our Farmers. Do you know remedies or a treatment for the Brown plant Hopper(BPH)? It is common pest in Paddy cultivation. It is rice crop only. I am located In Hyderabad, A.P state, India. This state is known as the Paddy bowel for India. No other crop nearby, completely covered with Paddy. Summer started here. Now the temperature is between 36 to 40 degree centigrade. At present no rain fall. If you give remedy for other common pest and deciese On paddy will be appreciated. Can you suggest any books or e books for detailed information on agriculture Homeopathy (all agriculture crops).
Varada Charyulu D V
Persistent BPH infestations and subsequent infection with different virus transmitted by this vector are the best example of iatrogeny in agriculture (disease caused by deliberate actions of man and chemical applications). The holon is in perpetual movement, and repeated insecticide applications markedly decrease plant resistance to viruses and facilitate attacks Nilaparvata lugen (BHP). The solution is: stop applying pesticides, convert to organic crops (even best: agrohomeopathic one) and return to the rice varieties resistant to BHP. These pest attacks are not the cause but the consecquence of disharmonies in the holon. In case of acute, application of Belladonna 3CH can be used ,which disables nymphs of N. lugen, sensitive to temperature variations. But it is also necessary for treatment to apply a background remedy: soil nosode 6 CH (specific to each holon) Staphysagria 100 CH and in the case of heavy pollution with pesticides a drainage remedy such as Berberis vulgaris 30 CH and chelating remedy Opuntia ficus-indica 6 CH.
Dear Varada Charyulu
Greetings to the rice bowel from the UK. I don’t know this problematic creature but I suspect that when it comes it is a problem throughout the region. Such monocrops are efficient when they work but prone to such plagues. Therefore, the remedy, if we could find one, would need to be widely used. The nearest example of which I am aware was work done in New Zealand on a vine hopper with potencies of the hopper itself (http://garudabd.org/sites/garudabd.org/files/Peppers%20MSD_0.pdf). The experience of the users is that the insects from the immediate region were effective but that insects from other regions were not. So you would be doing original research and it is most likely to be effective if used over a wide area.
If you can do this work please let us know how you get on.
Dear Plant Doctors,
We live in the north eastern U.S. and plant vegetable in our garden. Aphids have infested our peppers, broccoli, cabbage etc. It there a non- toxic way to handle this?
Infestation with aphids generally corresponds to the excessive application and consequent toxicity of nitrogen in the soil (either in the form of synthetic fertilizers or fertilizers made from animal wastes, blood derivates, cow dung or chicken manure etc.). Increase the presence of calcium and it will rapidly fix the problem.
You can apply Carbo vegetabilis 6 CH on the soil and Calcarea sulfurica 6 CH in the soil and in plants. As a preventive remedy you can apply nosode of aphids 6 CH, and as a corrective and emergency remedy diatomea powder, or homeopathic preparation of purin of Urtica at 3 CH potency with a little of vegetable oil as coadjuvant. Be sure of proper alternation of plants, and mantain enough space between plants interspersed with complementary plants (eg: Peppers-Ocimum basilicum, gabbage and carrot), avoid monocultures.
Howard, practice Allelopathy, also known as Companion Planting. Sprinkle mustard seeds amongst your cabbage, cauliflowers, etc. and the aphids will get attracted to it, sparing your main crop. Also work towards developing your soil fertility and vitality by using aerobically made compost made of green vegetation, a bit of cow dung, etc. Also, insert in it the Biodynamic Compost preparations, as advised. As the vital forces and the quality of health of soil improve, there will be gradual reduction not only of aphids but from almost all pest and diseases. Please go through the literatures on Biodynamic Agriculture.
Mark Moodie :
As usual, in the absence of insight into the reasons these creatures are problematic for you, I can only point to precedent and hope that the same remedy will be useful in your situation. The way to find this is to put ‘aphid’ into the search box at You will then get the following list of remedies and you should then check through to see if any of these are close to your own situation. I hope that this works.
|Natrum mur.||Natrum Muriaticum|
|Ment||Mentha Viridis/ Piperita/Sativa spp.|
|Nat sal||Natrum Salicylicum|
|BiP – C2||Biplantol contra x2|
|WS – RGRS||Rigorous|
|WS – BW||Black Warrant|
|Aphis.||Aphis Chenopodii Glauci|
Last year our crop of cucumbers was ravaged by mosaic virus. We’re planting again this year and wondered if there was a way to prevent the problem. We get average rainfall and the summers are around 80-900 F. We also grow tomatoes, peppers and zucchini.
Once symptoms of the virus appear, spray Arsenicum album 200 CH. But it is very important to prevent it. Make sure seeds and plants used are certified (virus-free), do not allow any smoking near cultivation or when handling plants; if using cutting tools it is important they be sterilized before and after use, by alcohol. Applying Calcarea carbonica 6 CH once a week will increase the resistance of plants to insects that are often mosaic virus vectors. Alternate it with Ruta graveolens 3 CH.
As with the answer above I would suggest that you look for precedents in the collection at but use mosaic as the search term. This beings up:
|Nat sal||Natrum Salicylicum|
|Oci-bas||Ocymum Minimum / Basilicum|
I hope one of these remedies can assist.
Hi Plant Doctors,
My cherry and peach trees have developed brown rot (Monilinia fructicola) in past seasons. Brown spots and light gray areas of spores spread on the fruit. I am in California, U.S. The temperature is warm most of the year and there has been much less rain than in the past. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Predisposition to moniliasis increases with alternating drought and humidity, you can apply homeopathic preparations on the flowering trees and during the fructification period. Use these remedies against Monilia, but as always, you must repertorize (select) them, depending on the specific symptoms of each holon.
For Fusarium spp. in tomatoes and eggplants it’s important to do soil solarization previous to seeding: cover the soil with black plastic and leave it two weeks in the strong sun.
You can use:
You can also induce resistance in your plants using Salix babylonica 6 CH, Ganoderma applanatum 100 CH or Coriolus versicolor 100 CH.
I associate rots with excess moisture, so it is interesting that rot is occurring when there is drought set in. Do the trees receive any irrigation? I guess that you can either treat for stress from lack of water – and there are remedies like China in the human materia medica which address this issue – or consider a remedy that has shown itself able to address rots. From the search box we get a long list so do try there –
Hello Plant Doctors,
Is there a treatment for, or a way to prevent, the fungus Fusarium wilt on tomatoes and eggplants? The shoots wilt or the leaves turn yellow and die. Our crop is in northern New Jersey (U.S.) and the weather is moderate.
Thank you ,
Hi Theresa. Try to grow your crops in a clean soil. The best way you could achieve this is by using aerobically fermented compost, treated with Biodynamic compost preparations and also using Trichoderma viridii, a biological agent
Fusarium in brings up:
|Oci-bas||Ocymum Minimum / Basilicum|
|BiP – M2||Biplantol mykos II|
See if any of these are helpful.
Dear Plant Doctors ,
Attached is a picture of my plant, I have researched all I can, and I think it might be part of the “Aglaonema” family? This was taken about 7 years ago. Now the plant is down to just a couple of leaves. I fear the last time I trimmed it, I might have killed it. I am guilty of watering it the wrong way, I feared it root rotted, so I transplanted it with 1/2 sand 1/2 potting soil. Well I fear I am doomed, this plant is dying. Please help guide me to how I might be able to save it, thank you ED
Silicea terra 200 CH is indicated in this case.
Eric, treat your soil with good quality compost that has been subjected to 65 deg. Celsius during the composting process. I have often found that the compost would rejuvenate the dying plant. It should be treated as a lifeline for all plants. Meanwhile, control watering to keep your soil simply moist, never wet, never dry. This should however, be the practice for almost all your plants.
I hope it goes without saying that there are many things plants need – food light water and so forth – and a remedy will not assist a plant that is starved of these. However, there is the ‘corpse reviver’ – carbo veg – which might tide you over until you can get all these other things in place.
Dear Varada, in your case I would suggest Pulsatilla LM12, one globule in 10 litres of water and pour the plants with this mixture twice with 3 weeks between the two Dates. And you Need Aurum M, 1 globule in 10 litres of water. Date: 10 days after the beginning of the therapy (in the middle of the time distance of Puls.). That’s all. The book of Das Kaviraj is a very good one, although there are some Little mistakes in it.
Greetings from Germany
@ Mark Moodie: There isn’t the reply-function anymore on this Website. Why?
@ Howard: Your Problem I would treat with Sequoia M, 1 globule in 10 litres of water, pour the plants once. I know, this is a very crazy remedy, but I allways get such Suggestion from my source. Perhaps I could send mentally some Information in your water (you only have to fix a date, when you have prepared the water in a bucket). I produce all my globules myself. So I can use every remedy in all potencies. xx Sabine
“@ Mark Moodie: There isn’t the reply-function anymore on this Website. Why?”
I don’t know Sabine. I suspect it is something to do with the WordPress settings that are not under my control.
I will be in email touch soon.
Doh! Actually there is a reply function but you have to be logged in for it to show up!
Thanks to the little bird who whispered that to me.
Dear Plant Doctors,
I am doing a research paper regarding cocos nucifera and its serious infestation by pest name Brontispa longgisma gaestro or coconut leaf beetle. The beetle only attack green, young, unopened leaves. As the leaf emerges, the leaflets curl, turn brown, then dry. The symptoms can be easily mistaken as drying due to water stress, especially during dry months. The leaves also appear scorched as if caused by excessive heat. In newly infested trees, the older leaves are normal in color. When the spear leaf opens, the beetles move to other plants or to the next emerging spear. Leaves that emerge undamaged will not be attacked by the beetle. The beetle hatches eggs in the leaves. Larvae brontispa longissima also infest the plant too. Biological agent, parasitoid tetrastichus brontispae is used to kill the larvae, but unfortunately not the beetle. As the leaves damage, beetles will fly out and infest nearby trees. The beetle only capable flying at short flights, few hundred metres.
This has been very interesting case for me personally. The more I read and do research, I become more intense. Mind-boggling. Because of agrohomeopathy is very young discipline, not much I know about how to treat the infestation with homeopathy remedy. I have read bout past article regarding suggested 4 remedies for insects. These are Cheloneglabra, Sabadilla, Cina and Carbo veg. Kaviraj’s book is on its way I just bought it for sake of knowledge.
Taxonomy of pest Brontispa longissima
Taxonomic position: Phylum: Arthropoda
Class: Hexapoda, Order: Coleoptera
Biological control/parasitoid: Tetrastichus brontispae and Asecodes hispinarum. Unfortunately, only act on larvae, not at adult pest beetle.
I am thinking remedy of Chrysopida spp because the pest came from family Chrysomelidae. Do you have any suggestion? How is the method to apply remedy for 1 coconut tree (cocos nucifera)?
although I’m not an official plant doctor, I have a suggestion for you:
for your coconut trees I suggest Ferrum met. C200 (CH200 I think, C200 is the German writing for this potency). You put it twice on the soil of one coconut tree, with two weeks between and at each date two globules. If you want to treat more trees on a farm: You need Ferr. met. C400, 3 globules in 10 litres of water. With this mixture you pour the trees twice, 2 weeks between the dates.
You see, I work different, but the target is NOT to eliminate the symptoms, but to heal the plants very deeply and to get a new harmony in nature. I produce all my remedies for myself (mentally). I testet your trees with the help of radionics. This works worldwide. My treated trees (apple, chery, horse chestnut, Sequoia etc.) have more leaves than untreated ones, are more vital. Sometimes they have still the same symptoms as in 2014, but less.
I Sri Rajendra Kumar Mohanty want to use Agro homeopathy in my Rice plant (paddy) cultivation . how can we get the medicine suggest me. I like Agro Homeopathy very much.