Agro Homeopathy

The Plant Doctors September 2015

Our plant doctors Radko Tichavshy, Pawan Singhania and Mark Moodie answer your questions about houseplants and crops for September 2015. Problems with Oak trees, banana and citrus plants. Send your questions to [email protected] Please include your approximate location and climate.

Our plant doctors Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Pawan Singhania weigh in on your plant problems.

   Radkomar15img01                  Markmar15img01               Pawanmar15img01                                    

Radko TIchavsky           Mark Moodie            Pawan Singhania

Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.   El 04/12/2014, a las 15:36, Radko Tichavsky [email protected]

Mark Moodie hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.

Agrohomeopathy Course!

Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here:


Mark Moodie hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.


Dear Radko Tichavshy, Mark Moodie and Pawan Singhania,

The oak woodlands in the foothills of the Sierra Mountains are overrun with mistletoe. And probably related, the Oak trees are very weak and growth is stunted. They don’t put on much shoot growth in the spring. The drought is not helping but not causative. The problems were there before. I worked with Dr Lee Klinger and provided alkalization and trace minerals to several oaks which helped greatly but the scale of the problem is overwhelming. Thousands of square miles are affected.

The particular area that I was living in was at 2900 feet, in a transition climate between pines and oaks, but the problem is also down at lower elevations in the drier oak woodlands, and higher up where the moss tends to cover the trees.

Is there any homeopathic approach that you can recommend? Also, how do you apply remedies on a large scale in agrohomeopathy without proving the remedies on yourself? Discussing your methods would be helpful.

Thanks much,

Roger Barr  


Radko Tichavsky:   Dear Roger, the problem of the mistletoe infestation has to do directly with the imbalance and deforestation in the middle and lower strata of the forest. The birds when they don’t find food in the lower strata (plants) and medium strata (bushes) of the forest, climb to the treetops where lie the seeds of mistletoe; some of them are ingested and evacuated and others stick on their plumage and so move and spread, infecting other trees en masse. Mechanical removal of mistletoe or alcalinization method will have limited results, while the revitalization and repopulation of the lower strata by native plants and bushes with edible seeds for birds will not be made. Seeds of plants at lower strata and seeds of bushes at medium strata serve as food for the birds and keep them busy at these two levels and in this way the treetops are free and are not re-infested by mistletoe seeds.

You can apply sprayed, the soil nosode 6 CH (made with representative soil sample taken at different locations) with the aim of revitalizing the holon. The homeopathic application can be sprinkled on large scale by helicopter or plane from the air. As a treatment of infected trees with mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) we use Tilandsia usneoides 6 CH and we also have experimented with a “live nosode” (dynamisations are realized in water without alcohol) of Tilandsia recurvata. The mistletoe is relatively sensitive to the application of fungi eg. Cladosporium spp. The fungus Cladosporium (contained in this two mentioned Tillandsias) dry mistletoe leaves and mummify them on the tree without affecting the branches.


Pawan Singhania:

Dear Roger

First to analyze your situation

  1. Zone which is dry. (Possibly dry cold)
  2. Zone which is, expectedly, more colder and wetter (wet cold) with Pine forest

3 The ground is covered with mistletoe (acting more as a weed – but is also as ground cover). (I wonder if mistletoe is standing as a problem or is useful – as ground cover?)

  1. In transition zone, with Pine and Oak trees. (two kinds of weather!)
  2. The main problem is “very weak and stunted growth”.


I feel each zone and each problem requires separate treatment.

I wonder, if you have the possibilities of making a small experiment and can make careful observation. Considering that you can, I have the following suggestions. But, I also have a request. This is a very interesting case. I would suggest that if you can undertake serious study of it and if you happen to follow my recommendations, you will share your observations in these pages for future learning. I also expect your close and continuous cooperation, as there may or may not be need of repetition of doses (at appropriate time/s), or need of single or change of remedies, depending upon the developments or no development. My advice is based on classical homeopathy.

I would like to address the problems using preparations from two sciences, Homeopathy and Biodynamic Agriculture.

First, if possible, I would suggest dividing the zones (as for experiment) into mainly 4 zones out of which one should be as CONTROL. No treatment – serving as mark for comparison.

Biodynamic Treatment:

  1. BD 501 (silica preparation) @ 1 gm. per acre. You need to procure BD 501 preparation from any Biodynamic Agriculture Association or BD farmer.

You need to use 1 gm in 13 liters of water, stirred (rhythmically clockwise and anti-clockwise) for one hour and need to spray skyward. This needs to be sprayed on the day when the moon is in Air/Light sign. or when the Moon is in Opposition to Saturn. (Please refer to the current Biodynamic Calendar for the dates) This is required to be applied, early in the morning, before sunrise. I would suggest two to three doses only. (Please calculate the quantities required for covering the area considering the size of container you can afford for stirring the solution and the size of the spraying tank)

Besides, I would also like to enliven the soil with BD 500 and bring in the Calcium influence using BD505 (the oak tree preparation). The use of BD500 followed by BD501 will establish balancing of the forces and BD505 the calcium influence (homeopathically). Although BD505 is usually used as one of the compost preparations, I suggest using it as spray on the Oak trees. BD 501 is expected to initiate the growth.

  1. May be you can have two zones. In one you, use only the BD501 but in another equal size zone, all the three BD500 + BD505 (mixed together and applied to the soil and the trees) followed by BD501 (sprayed skyward and allowing the fine mist to fall on the trees). This combination should be more apt, especially for the Dry Cold region, where the soil supposedly should be low in organic matter and poor in soil life activity (also due to draught).
  1. As for Homeopathy (remedy) only zone, I would advise using Medorrhinum 30 (125ml in 500 liters water per hectare as advised by Vaikunthanath Das Kaviraj) and spraying directly over each tree. Wait and watch for at least a month, if not for two months. If required, another dose (at appropriate time – to be discussed before application) to be given. Maybe we will require to change the potency then.

It is important that the homeopathy remedy should be stirred, at least for 15 minutes, before administering.

  1. Mistletoe if seems to be a problem in itself, please try to using Viscum album 3x (125m/500 liters/hectare). Repeat once every 7-15 days. Closely watch the results, if it is benefited or dying.


You may require big size tankers and some mechanism to stir the solutions (which is very important). You may use high density Sprayers or even Airplanes to spray in large areas. Please add upon the quantities, depending upon the size you can handle.

None of the above are harmful to humans, but especially while using Medorrhinum, you may use some kind of protective gears (though, not essential), so need to worry about provings.



Dear Plant Doctors,

Hi, I live in Thailand and I have a lime tree with these diseases: citrus greening, (also known as Huanglongbing or HLB); citrus canker (Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. citri), and Asian Citrus Psyllid.

Symptoms: I see curly leaves, deadened blackened branch shoot tips; citrus canker spots all over the leaves and stems; yellow halos around the canker; excessive branching of the tree; stunted growth of tree; greening effect from a bacteria, grayish irregular paterns on the lime fruit itself; limes drop off to the ground. I just found this:

If so, how effective is it, what are the costs, and what does it cost to send some to Thailand. What happens to the plants? To put it simply, they look like the photos attached:


Thank you,

Dr. Sky


Radko Tichavsky:   Dear Dr. Sky viewing the photos it is clear that the path of production of citrus in monocultures generate many problems. It is very beneficial to control of HLB to intersperse the citrus trees with Guava´s trees. Some HLB studies link it to the presence of phytoplasma, besides causing bacteria Candidatus liberbacter and spread by psyllids, causing constriction of phloem flow in the plant, ie interrupting the passage of the sap in them.

The holohomeopathic strategy of control of HLB can be summarized in the following steps:

  1. Strengthen the vitality of the soil using soil nosode 6 CH and periodically tea-compost
  2. Alternate the citruses with guava trees
  3. Increase the hardness of the epidermis of plants applying calcarea carbonica 6 CH
  4. Promoting the defensive response of plants and sap flow in the phloem with Aspirin 12 CH, VitMIN C 12 CH, Berberis vulgaris 12 CH or Gingko biloba 12 CH, Ganoderma applanatum 12 CH or Phellinus 12 CH.
  5. Decrease the psyllid transmitter pressure applying remedies as Ricinus communis 6 CH and Azadirachta indica 6 CH
  6. Nourish separately radicle and the treetops, applying compost and foliar irrigation.


Relative to the canker, this is spread generally by wind above 28 km/h and by the pruning instruments infected by the bacterium Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. citri.

To control the disease may be done by the following steps:

  1. Plant Thuya occidentalis trees as fences around citrus plantations to reduce wind speed and disperse Volatile Organic Compounds of Thuya on the air.
  2. Strictly disinfect instruments used in pruning
  3. Plant only trees free of bacteria
  4. Use disease resistant rootstocks
  5. Apply homeopathic remedy made from lemon seeds 6 CH, Cuprum metallicum 6 CH during the time of formation of the fruit, also Carica papaya 6 CH, Ganoderma applanatum 6 CH, Larrea tridentata 12 CH and Thuya occidentalis 12 CH remedies are useful in controlling this disease.


Each case requires a particular repertorization, depending on the degree of devitalization of plants and holon. It is important to review the native espontaneous plants in the holon, because among them are always most powerful remedies to solve the problems of each individual holon.


Pawan Singhania:

Dear Dr. Sky, First use Thuja occidentalis 6 (1ml/10 liters of water. Stir 15 minutes, clockwise and anticlockwise, before spraying on the whole plant). Repeat dose after 30 or 45 days. Stop. Wait and watch. Report the results. It may be required to use Medorrhinum 6, once the infection is cleared, in order to stimulate growth from its now stunted growth. But, please consult before repeating any dose or change of medicine. Please allow the beneficial action of the remedy to exhaust before repeating or changing the remedy.

It’s not possible to export the medicines. Please look for Homeopathy remedy outlets in Thailand.

Also treat your soil (near roots) with good quality compost and adding Boron to it. 3 applications at an interval of 30, 60 and 90 days, thoroughly mixing with the top soil.



Hi Plant Doctors,

I have a bad problem with a few apple trees that I think have “canker”, a type of fungus. There is a Granny Smith apple tree, a Brayburn apple tree, a Crabapple tree and a Golden Queen peach tree all affected (the two apple trees are the worst). It looks like it is getting into the tree under the bark – there are bore hole patches as well as vertical marks up branches (like carved marks) and going around a branch strangling it and rotting the wood. Please see the attached photos.

We are pruning off and cutting out the dead bits on the trees as best we can and covering with pruning paste, but I wondered if you could recommend a homeopathic solution I could use as well? We have been told that the only solution is to cut the trees down and plant new ones, so any advice would be appreciated.

Located in Auckland, New Zealand, a subtropical climate with quite a bit of rain.

agrohomeopathy-sept15-04 agrohomeopathy-sept15-03 agrohomeopathy-sept15-02




Radko Tichavsky:   Hi Anna, to heal the fungal problems in your trees you can perform the following actions:

  1. Apply tea-compost in trees (including foliar spray application) periodically.
  2. Make prunings in the trees so that air can flow better. Try to make a slightly more severe pruning with posterior application of Arnica montana after this.
  3. Apply the apple homeopathic constituent remedy: Rosa canina 100 CH (made from leaves) and complementary remedies Eriobotria japonica 100 CH (prepared from the leaves and seeds) and Viola tricolor 12 CH.
  4. Apply homeopathic remedy at 6 CH potency made from lichens that appear in the trunks.


Pawan Singhania:

Anna, Please follow the same advice as I gave for Dr. Sky for his citrus, but use Thuja occidentalis 30 potency. Also the compost + boron, as prescribed.



Dear Plant Doctors

I am from Kerala the south part of India near Arabian Sea. Climate: it is a tropical region. Average  rainfall–3107mm. 120-140 days full rainy days.65% of the rainfall occurs from June to August and rest from September to December.

Banana—-There is heavy blight on the leaf of the banana. Some plants fell down due to rotting roots. We can see some grains on banana fruit. (photo)

Ginger——Rhizome rot, also called soft rot, is one of the most devastating diseases of ginger. Initial symptoms of the disease appear as light yellowing of leaf tips which gradually spread down to the leaf blade and leaf sheath along the margin. During early stages, the middle portion of the lamina remains green while the margin turns yellow. Subsequently the yellowing spreads to all leaves followed by drooping, withering and drying. Infected shoot can be easily pulled out from the soil. Some bugs are screwed to the rhizomes, we can see the residues (photos are attached)

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Boby Mathai Tharayil


Radko Tichavsky:   Dear Boby. At the banana you can apply Arsenic 100 CH and related to the ginger symptomatology, you can solve the problem with regular application of Apium graveolens 6 CH (made from seeds, root and leaves), Rosmarinus officinalis 6 CH and Ricinus communis 6 CH



Dear Plant Doctors,

I have alkaline soil (ph 8) and I need to reduce it to 6.5 to grow more veggies. I live in the Philippines and I cannot easily buy the remedies prescribed. Many materials suggest Calcarea carbonica as a remedy; can I just make a tincture from oyster shells?  Thank you.

Pamela Henares


Radko Tichavsky:   Dear Pamela from the shells you can prepare Calcarea ostreata. But the main remedy remedy indicated to decrease the pH in the soil is Sulphur 12 CH or Zincum metallicum 6 CH.


Pawan Singhania:

Hi Pamela. You should use half rotted compost or farm yard manure copiously, mixing it with the top 6 inches of the soil, particularly before monsoon (rains). Due to the acid secreted during further decomposition and the extra moisture held by the soil (because of this compost application), the soil will gradually turn acidic. Once the pH comes down to near 6.2, stop using half rotten compost/FYM and start using fully decomposed or fermented compost. Now, you should use a lesser quantity of which during winter use 25% (mix with the top soil 15 days before planting to be followed by another 15% after about 45-50 days (in case of veggies), 40% to be used at the beginning of the summer (as top mulch), 30% at the beginning of rains (mixed with the top soil)

Also use fermented Composted Tea diluting the concentrate with water in the ratio of 1 part of fermented concentrate with 9 parts of water and apply this in the root zone of your veggies, preferably every 15 days.

Add to your compost tea, molasses 5%, and fermented curd 2%. Instead of using water as base, use preferably rice starch (start derived after cooking rice).

If you follow this, you should expect improvement of your soil pH from 2nd year only. Do not bother about any homeopathy preparation here or making it using oyster shells. A homeopathy remedy may not help in reducing the soil pH which is more of a soil chemistry problem.

About the author

Radko Tichavsky

Radko Tichavsky was born in the Czech republic. He has lived in Mexico for more than 25 years and is one of the most important agrohomeopaths in Latin America. He is the author of the book "Manual de Agrohomeopatia", a homeopathy book on plants. Radko teaches agrohomeopathy in several countries and regularly publishes articles in special journals and internet portals. He works as a researcher and teacher at the university and has already taught agrohomeopathy to many students. He is the director of the Comenius Institute ( More details can be found in the following interview:

About the author

Mark Moodie

For 25 years Mark Moodie has been fascinated by holistic approaches to tending the land. He hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting. He has also published books by V.D. Kaviraj and other cutting edge thinkers through Mark Moodie Publications . Mark Moodie lives in the Forest of Dean as a satellite / parasite of Oaklands Park Camphill Community. He is co-inventor of the ES4 and AirFlush water-saving sanitaryware. He would like to bring scientific rigor to the study of the spirit.

About the author

Pawan Singhania

Switched from chemical and poison use to Organic to Biodynamic to Biovedic methods of gardening and farming. Engaged in biological landscape designing, execution and maintenance for my living. Currently working on applied research on Bioenergetics and Agro-homeopathy.


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